Sources of Information Mount for Trekkers in Nepal

Good news for budget travelers heading for Nepal: There is a mountain of free information about trekking in the Annapurna, Langtang and Everest regions.

With the summer monsoons over and the sky its clearest, November is one of the most popular trekking times in Nepal. The second-busiest time is early spring.

Sources for free background information continue to expand on the Internet. At https://www.nepalonline.net, you’ll find helpful “frequently asked questions” and “trekking” sections, plus a link to the Himalayan Rescue Assn., which gives detailed information on altitude sickness. At https://www.nepalpages.com you can find a listing of major events. And at https://www.nepalnews.com you can read the local English-language newspapers. “Destinations” at https://www.lonelyplanet.com offers good general information, plus feedback from travelers on scams.

In hard-copy handbooks, “Trekking in the Annapurna Region” by Bryn Thomas (Trailblazer Publications, $16.95) covers the area well with 42 trekking maps. Lonely Planet has recently published an updated edition of “Nepal” ($19.95). Its “Trekking in Nepal” ($17.95), although several years old, is still a popular source of information.

Katmandu will be the first major stop for many travelers, which, along with modern conveniences such as Internet services for travelers, introduces you to some of the country’s more exotic features. Most budget travelers settle into accommodations in the city’s Thamel district, then head to the heart of the city (Durbar Square) for its ancient palace and beautifully carved buildings. Guides point out the home of the Kumari, a young girl who is traditionally worshiped as a “living goddess” (her feet are not allowed to touch the ground). In the surrounding valley you can climb up to the temple of Swayambhunath under the watchful eye of Buddha, or make your way to the Hindu temple of Pashupatinath on the banks of the Bagmati River. Non-Hindus cannot go inside, but sitting across the narrow river from the cremation ghats (steps), with masses of monkeys scrambling across the ancient ruins, is like being on the set of an Indiana Jones movie.

As a trekker, you have three choices. You can make arrangements with a tour company before leaving home (the most expensive way because of the number of middlemen), or join a group tour after you arrive. Either way, you’ll have a guide and porters, your meals will be prepared for you, and you’ll probably stay in tents. Your third option is to independently trek from one teahouse, or small lodge, to another ($6 to $10 per day). Notice that boards at budget accommodations in Katmandu feature messages from travelers looking for company. You also can hire your own guides and porters.

If hiring a porter ($5 to $12 per day) seems pretentious for a budget traveler, remember that you help support the local residents by providing employment. You should hire guides and porters in the region you will be trekking in so you are assured they know the area. Find out if you have the necessary clothing and shoes for each trip. Get recommendations. Porter strikes, en route, for more money are not unheard of.

Independent budget travelers can provide a boost to any local economy. They spread their money around, buying food and accommodations from a variety of local residents in each community.

But they can also have a negative impact. Village kids, for example, will tag along, and enough trekkers have passed along “treats” or given them money that the kids have learned to beg. As far as candy goes, remember you’re not doing them a favor in a country where there’s minimal access to dental services. When it comes to kids asking for money, ask them to provide services of value in return. Think of a little task they can do for the few hours they want to tag along, perhaps carrying a small bag for you or teaching you a local language, then pay them for the service. Don’t overpay. Although well-meaning, you could offend others, such as a porter or guide. Think about what they earn for a full day’s work and figure out a child’s reward accordingly.