Bolivian Miners Strike Lode of Tourism

Miguel Angel Delgadillo helps a group of German tourists put on hard hats, rubber boots and jackets, then hands them a carbon lamp. Chewing coca leaf, he leads then into the Grito de Piedra mine.

After an hour of crouching, jumping over deep holes and avoiding protruding rocks, Delgadillo and the tourists arrive in front of the “Tio” statue, the devilish-looking protector of the Cerro Rico--Rich Hill.

Here he tells the visitors about the legends of the mountain that once made Potosi a wealthy city by churning out silver, tin and zinc. And he talks about the tough life and harsh working conditions that have claimed the lives of countless miners over the centuries.

Tourism in this colonial-era city of 130,000 people has taken a welcome twist--struggling miners cooperatives are augmenting their incomes by cashing in on the growing number of vacationers who are looking for something different.

For decades visitors came to Potosi to see the imposing Spanish Mint and the beautiful churches with gold-leafed altars and elaborately carved stone facades. But today the main attraction is the chance to view some of the 30 miles of shafts where miners eke out their livings digging with hand tools, sometimes working 24-hour shifts.

Last year, 65,000 tourists visited Potosi, and most paid from $24 to $40 for an underground tour. The number of visitors is expected to increase by around 10% this year.

“Going into this mine is like going back centuries and seeing how the miners have worked under such difficult conditions,” said Kurt Rabe, a German tourist.

The miners, whose earnings generally run about $15 to $35 a week, are delighted. “For us, tourism represents a new source of income,” said Delgadillo.

Miners cooperatives took over the Cerro Rico shafts after the Bolivian government abandoned money-losing state mines in the mid-1980s, laying off tens of thousands of workers.

But with their inefficient operations, the cooperatives have fared no better--only 850 with 12,000 members survive from the 5,000 co-ops registered in 1985, and many are expected to fold soon. Only one mine in the mountain, the Pailaviri, is operated by a private company that uses modern technology.

Delgadillo and other miners lead tourists through dark and humid tunnels and descend on hand-cranked elevators into shafts where miners work in loincloths because temperatures can rise to 95 degrees.

One of the stops is where miners daily pay homage to the Tio, the devil responsible for keeping them safe. Miners--and adventuresome tourists--sprinkle coca leaves on the statue and chew a few of the stimulating leaves.

The miners take the Tio seriously and warn their visitors that those who do not believe in the Tio or make fun of it will be cursed.

According to one of the legends they recount, a young miner insulted the Tio after hours of drinking during a celebration. As he left the mine, the shaft caved in and the miner was swallowed up.

“Even today, this mountain, the source of so much wealth, continues to claim the lives of my fellow miners,” Delgadillo said. “But until tourism brought in additional income, mining was what sustained us.”

Potosi was decreed an “imperial city” by King Charles V of Spain in 1553--57 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock.

In 1650, Potosi, with a population of 160,000, was the largest city in the Americas. It was renowned for its silver mines, magnificent architecture, churches glistening with gold and theaters featuring the best of European productions.

Reflections of its fabulous colonial past can still be seen in its churches and in private houses with wooden balconies overlooking the narrow, winding streets.

Among several fine museums is Casa de la Moneda, or Mint, which has served as a mint, fortress and prison since it was built in 1572.

Some of the city’s residents, dressed in fine, hand-woven wool garments, carry on the cultural traditions of their Quechua Indian ancestors. Others, wearing modern clothing, are the Creole descendants of Spaniards and Indians who were lured to Potosi by the mines.

Potosi is nestled at the foot of the Cerro Rico on a plateau 13,400 feet above sea level and surrounded by mountains and valleys that are part of the eastern edge of the Andes.