1997 Domaine Gramenon Co^tes du Rho^ne “Cuvee des Laurentides,” Rhone Valley (About $15)

The knowledgeable and enthusiastic proprietress of the Paris wine shop Caves du Pantheonintroduced me to Domaine Gramenon’s “Laurentides” bottling earlier this year. And what a find it is! I tasted one bottle and went back for more. Insiders know that Laurent Gramenon and his wife are among the most respected producers in the Rho^ne. They don’t go in much for high-tech in their very traditional cellar. Their vineyards are farmed organically, and they never filter or fine their wines. Laurentides is one of several special cuvees the estate produces, this one a blend of old-vine Grenache with Syrah. The fruit practically jumps out of the glass, teasing your palate with its lush black cherry, wild berry and Provencal herb flavors.

Available at Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822, and Wally’s in Westwood, (310) 475-0606. If you can’t find this wine, ask your local store to order it from Wine House Limited, (800) 966-8468.