Sand, Surf and ‘Culinary Soul’ at Santa Monica’s Oceanfront

A block from Main Street and Pico Boulevard, Casa del Mar, built in the ‘20s as a posh Santa Monica beach club (most recently a Pritikin center), has reopened its doors as Santa Monica’s latest luxury hotel. After a $60 million renovation, the Casa del Mar looks as stately as a vintage ocean liner. From the entrance doors, a grand staircase sweeps upward to the lobby lounge populated with commodious sofas and armchairs. With its fireplaces and cozy nooks, it’s a great place for a drink. At the far end is the bar and, beyond that, a view of the ocean breaking on the sand.

To the left is the 75-seat restaurant, called, with not much imagination, Oceanfront, which features California cuisine from chef Andrew DeGroot. As the hotel’s press release breathlessly explains, DeGroot, who cooked in France and with Jean-Louis Palladin in Washington before coming to L.A. as chef at Pastis, “reached deep into his culinary soul to conceive unique combinations of foods.”

Not to worry. DeGroot’s menu at Oceanfront, at least the temporary one now being served, is a pleasant evocation of California cuisine, with an emphasis on seafood. He’s wisely not trying to do too much too soon, offering eight or so appetizers and about the same number of main courses.

On a recent evening, I enjoyed a crab, avocado and cucumber tartare set off by a gazpacho coulis to start. There’s a lovely salad of julienne gold and red beets stacked like a log cabin, and, also, shrimp cannelloni in curried cauliflower sauce. Seared foie gras set on diced cooked Fuji apples and vanilla marmalade seems too sweet to drink with wine, though.

From the dining room at night, the view of the dark water is calming. Comfortable wicker armchairs are pulled up to white-clothed tables, far enough apart that you can actually have a private conversation--now that is a luxury.

DeGroot’s fish dishes are what I remember most from Pastis, and here his crispy river salmon has a subtle, delicate flavor, though the accompanying floury vegetable gnocchi doesn’t do it any favors. Red wine drinkers will appreciate the roast rack of lamb paired with an earthy white bean “aioli.” The filet of beef is a good choice, too, flanked by a peppery watercress salad and creamy “fondant” potatoes.

Although DeGroot’s menu ideas are focused and appealing, they don’t break much new ground. I’m hoping that, once the new wears off, DeGroot will take more chances.

I’m thrilled to have another choice of restaurant near the beach, and with Casa del Mar’s glamorous setting, it would be fun (and not at all out of place) to really dress for a meal at Oceanfront. Meanwhile, I’m looking forward to going back at lunch, when I can revel in the view and, after, take a stroll along the beach.

BE THERE

Oceanfront, Casa del Mar, 1910 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 581-5533. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Dinner appetizers $7.50 to $18; main courses $15 to $28. Valet parking.