Decadent Burrito Belongs in Food Group of Its Own

Nuts and bolts. Gin and vermouth. Tracy and Hepburn. Some combinations add up to more than the sum of their parts. Take the chile relleno burrito at El Maguey. It’s a fence sitter’s dream because there’s no weighing a heavy decision between two favorites when you can have both at once.

A large pasilla chile is stuffed with Mexican cheese, dipped in batter and deep fried, then rolled into a big, soft flour tortilla filled with refried beans and more cheese, this time American and cheddar.

The dish achieves a certain synergy that’s deeply satisfying, especially when topped with ranchera sauce, guacamole or sour cream. Is it authentic? Who cares. It’s grand comfort food, especially when you wash it down with that other classic combo--Tecate and lime.

Chile relleno burrito (without the toppings)--720 calories/36 grams of fat. $5.98 at El Maguey, 31481 Camino Capistrano, San Juan Capistrano. (949) 493-8681.

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