Wine : 1997 Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany. (About $23)

Here’s a terrific example of Germany’s excellent 1997 Riesling vintage. It’s a classically beguiling Mosel--crisp and sweet at the same time, with notes of slate and minerals in the nose. It’s ripe and approachable; you can drink it now with total pleasure. Served well chilled, it would make a wonderful match for mussels steamed in white wine with minced shallots and parsley, sprinkled with pungent freshly ground pepper at the end.

Available at Woodland Hills Wine Co., (818) 222-1111. If you can’t find this wine, ask your local store to order it from the distributor, Templer Wines, (818) 735-0401.