Itinerary: South Pasadena

Mayberry has nothing on South Pasadena. It is the quintessential small town: less than four square miles, 24,000 people and almost as many trees. Founded in 1888, it is one of the oldest cities in the San Gabriel Valley and has the collection of 19th century houses to prove it.

One piece of advice for visitors: Don’t mention the 710 Freeway extension--which would bisect the city if built. Residents seem a little touchy about that.

Thursday

South Pasadena got its own farmers market about a six weeks ago. It’s from 4 to 8 each Thursday, on Meridian Street at Mission Street, and perfect for picking up something fresh for dinner.

While you’re there, pop into the South Pasadena Historical Museum (916 Meridian Ave., [626] 799-9089. Free. Open Saturdays, 1-4 p.m. and during the farmers market). The small museum is located in the 1887 Meridian Iron Works, which was originally a hotel and grocery. Just opposite the front door is the Watering Trough and Wayside Station, the 1906 version of a freeway rest stop between Pasadena and Los Angeles.

Friday

Stop by the South Pasadena Chamber of Commerce Visitor’s Center (1610 Mission St., [626] 799-7161) to pick up the brochure South Pasadena History and Landmarks. Then drive or walk through the city’s historic districts, filled with turn-of-the-century homes, including the area around El Centro at Indiana and Palm avenues; Oak and Laurel streets west of Fair Oaks Avenue; and Ramona Avenue, south of Rollin Street.

Other architectural points of interest include Wynyate (851 Lyndon St.), a private residence built in 1887 that was the home of writer Margaret Collier Graham and her husband, Donald Graham, who was the first mayor of South Pasadena. At Buena Vista Street and Meridian Avenue, you’ll find the Garfield Residence (1001 Buena Vista St.), a Craftsman-style home designed by architects Charles and Henry Greene in 1904, which was home to the widow of assassinated President James Garfield. Next door is the Howard Longley Residence (1005 Buena Vista St.). Built in 1897, it is the oldest surviving example of Greene and Greene’s work.

Saturday

Mission and El Centro streets were the main drags through town, and today they still provide interesting shopping. The 900 and 1000 blocks of Mission are lined with boutiques and antique stores. Running parallel, El Centro has the old bank building, the Public Library (entrance at 1100 Oxley St.), a neoclassical building from 1907, and one of the libraries endowed by the Carnegie Foundation.

You might refuel with a cup of coffee at Kaldi (1019 El Centro St. Open until 11 nightly. [626] 403-5951). Or, for a full meal, Nick’s (1009 El Centro St., [626] 441-7910) might be in order. Just over a year old, the restaurant is all patio--actually a converted parking lot--and has earned rave reviews for its California cuisine.

Sunday

The other town center is Fair Oaks Avenue, which is also a stretch of Historic Route 66. Stop in at the Fair Oaks Pharmacy and Soda Fountain (1526 Mission St., [626] 799-1414), first built in 1915 and lovingly restored by new owners in 1989. The lunch counter is open from 11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily, and the menu is full of ice cream treats--floats, freezes, malts and sundaes.

Take in a movie at the Rialto Theatre (1023 Fair Oaks Ave., [626] 799-9567) while you can still sit in the balcony (though the sound is bad up there). Next year, owners Landmark Theaters are converting the balcony of the 73-year-old Spanish Baroque building into two smaller theaters, though the main auditorium will remain the same size.