Rounding Up a Good Ol’ Time

Cowboys are back in effect, y’all. Ranch hands have been spotted traipsing down Sunset Boulevard--and we’re not talking about those big-butted men in tight Wrangler jeans and Garth Brooks-American flag shirts. We’re talking about that sexy breed of booted boys, epitomized by Brad Pitt in “Thelma & Louise” or John Travolta in “Urban Cowboy.” The reason they’re suiting up on the Strip? The Saddle Ranch Chop House, a well-timed country restaurant and nightclub with a phat mechanical bull.

You might be a redneck if you grab a seat by the corral and can’t leave for two hours, but more than likely, you’re having the best time you’ve had in ages. The Saddle Ranch Chop House, at the site of the old Thunder Roadhouse, offers people-watching maximus. From hot chicks trying to get a handle on the bull to professional riders, you’ll want to pony on over to this hot spot for a view of the bullish antics.

The venue opened less than three weeks ago and, remarkably, it’s already packed every night. But just like the owners’ previous venture, Miyagi’s--which turned the Roxbury into a happening three-level sushi club--the Saddle Ranch Chop House was another good idea waiting to happen. Owners Larry Pollack (who also conceived of the popular Dublin’s Irish Whiskey Pub) and Tom Dillon worked on the concept for nine months, and they left no stony idea unturned.

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Like going to Knott’s Berry Farm without the drive, the Saddle Ranch has all the country kitsch modest money can buy. From boot-shaped shot glasses to life-size dolls dressed like madams at an old-time brothel, the Saddle Ranch is tacky in all the right places. There are bullwhips, Wild West signage, a pool table and indoor-outdoor TV monitors aplenty. And, like Miyagi’s, the hand-picked employees emit a positive energy that’s so un-Hollywood, it’s very refreshing. Undoubtedly, that’s part of the reason people from so many different walks of life feel comfortable here. On any given night, you might find a middle-aged couple at a booth chowing on an enormous platter of ribs, while a punk rock kid in a Misfits T-shirt shows off his ability to ride the bull at level nine without getting tossed (10 is the highest).

Currently, the club is open from 5:30 p.m. till 2 a.m., with a late-night menu available until 1:15 a.m. (If you’re having the pancakes, which come in a dish the size of a New York pizza, we recommend waiting about 45 minutes before riding ye olde bull.) Within the next few weeks, the Saddle Ranch Chop House will open for breakfast and lunch.

Right now, however, the time to check it out is at night, and it really heats up after 10:30 p.m., when liquid courage takes over and people line up to ride. With music that spans AC/DC to Garth Brooks, this is a country spot with a very rock ‘n’ roll ‘tude.

Those wanting to try their hand at taming the beast, it’s three bucks a ride--and you can preserve that experience on video for $19.99. Another bonus: A double-decker bus shuttles guests between the Chop House and Miyagi’s, for the complete East meets West experience.

BE THERE

Saddle Ranch Chop House, 8371 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 822-3850. All ages. No cover. Open daily 5:30 p.m.-2 a.m. Breakfast and lunch hours beginning mid-October.