Old-fashioned Chinatown-style chow mein is alive and well in West Los Angeles at the Hong Kong Kitchen. This Cantonese takeout place has a long menu, but chicken chow mein is one of its big sellers. Strips of chicken are combined with lots of bean sprouts, onion, celery and other vegetables. Fat, crisp fried chow mein noodles, like the ones that come in cans, are packaged separately in to-go orders so they won't become soggy. The Hong Kong Kitchen's chow mein also comes with pork, beef, shrimp or just vegetables.
Chicken chow mein, $5.05 at Hong Kong Kitchen, 11128 Palms Blvd., near Sepulveda Boulevard, Los Angeles. (310) 559-3233.