Lamb

When I think of spring, I think of spring lamb--sweet and tender, with a slightly gamy finish.

* Paio: A garlic-crusted roast loin chop is served with grilled broccoli rabe, coconut-scented cooking juices and smashed new potatoes at this charming Silver Lake place. (Pan-roasted lamb loin chop with grilled broccoli rabe and smashed potatoes, $27.) Paio, 2520 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, (323) 953-1973.

* Paul’s Cafe: Here, a six-chop rack is rubbed with garlic, grilled medium rare and served in minty cooking juices with a delicate goat-cheese tart and sauteed spinach. (Garlic-rubbed rack of lamb with goat cheese tart with spinach and mint jus, $16.95.) Paul’s Cafe, 13456 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 789-3575.

* 5 Dudley: Chefs Mike Wilson and Mike Brown feature a different lamb dish every week, such as rack of lamb with a corn flan and black truffles, or a huge shank served with rosti potatoes, or lamb osso buco on a crisp risotto cake. The list goes on and on. (Lamb dish, $24 to $32.) 5 Dudley, 5 Dudley Ave., Venice, (310) 399-6678.

* vermont: In the heart of Los Feliz, you can get a generous lamb shank braised for eight to 10 hours until the meat falls off the bone. It’s served with garlic mashed potatoes, glazed spring vegetables (new onions, carrots, turnips and red radishes) and lamb cooking juices. (Braised lamb shank with garlic mashed potatoes, spring vegetables and lamb jus, $16.) vermont, 1714 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 661-6163.

* Lucques: Chef Suzanne Goin serves an exotic Moroccan lamb osso buco with couscous, winter squash and dates, along with a side of Tunisian harisa: ancho chilies pureed with olive oil, tomatoes and garlic. The lamb shank is cut in two and braised for two hours with white wine and an assortment of fresh vegetables, making it tender enough to cut with a fork. (Moroccan-style lamb osso buco, $24.) Lucques, 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (323) 655-6277.

* Axe: Step into this minimalist gem on Abbot Kinney Boulevard for a roasted rack of lamb (four pieces) with chestnuts, potato puree, roasted baby beets and cipolline onions in a rosemary demi-glaze. The meat is seared until delicately browned on the outside and then finished off in the oven. (Rack of lamb with chestnut, potato puree, roasted baby beets and cipolline onions, $22.) Axe, 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, (310) 664-9787.