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1998 Penfolds Kooneenga Hill Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia

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All the way from Australia comes this easy-drinking Shiraz-Cabernet blend, so red it stains the glass; at about $8 retail, many bargain hunters are going to be very glad it made the trip. It has a sweet, beguiling nose slightly favoring the Shiraz side: a little spice, a little berry. But though soft and ripe in character, it lacks the cloying jamminess that sometimes mars even high-end Australian reds.

So bring on the barbecue and the ribs. It would also be good in those coq au vin and daube de boeuf recipes that call for a full-bodied red wine. At this price, you can be lavish; throw two bottles into your sauce.

About $8. Widely available.

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