1998 Markham Vineyards Merlot, Napa Valley

Along with a lightly sweet perfume and deep garnet color with violet highlights, this Merlot from Markham Vineyards in Napa Valley has a beautifully soft texture in the mouth. Its style is graceful understatement, which shows best with food. How’s that for a radical concept?

About $16. Available at fine wine shops.