1999 Georges Duboeuf Morgon “Jean Descombes,” Beaujolais, France.

Beaujolais Nouveau is not all there is to Beaujolais--thank heavens. The 10 Beaujolai crus, that is, wines from villages that merit their own appellation, have always offered good quality for the price. Morgon produces notably denser and longer-lived Beaujolais. The “Jean Descombes” Morgon from Beaujolais’ best known producer, Georges Duboeuf, is a subtle charmer. It’s a Gamay all right, with all that beautiful fruit, but verging on Burgundy in style, which, of course, makes it an excellent wine with food.

It’s delicious with charcuterie--pa^tes, terrines, sausages, etc.--with chicken fricasees, and, hey, why not a burger?

About $12. Available at fine wine shops. If you can’t find it, have your local retailer call Southern Wines and Spirits, (562) 926-6000.