2000 on a Plate

What kind of food do we like at the Los Angeles Times Food Section? That’s easy: all kinds. If you don’t believe it, take a look at this year’s list of favorite recipes.

Like sweets? There’s a wonderfully moist upside-down cranberry cake. Maybe something more savory? How about pork chops with tarragon cream. Spicy? Chipotle chicken. Plain? Banana cream pie. Fancy? Crisp-skinned salmon with summer succotash and creamed corn.

We’ve got recipes from famous chefs, like Thomas Keller and Deborah Madison. We’ve got recipes from old favorites like Abby Mandel, Mayi Brady and Donna Deane. And we’ve got some new favorites too: for the second year in a row, Test Kitchen intern Jet Tila has a dish on the list.

It’s been a busy year in the Time Test Kitchen and certainly one of our best. Whether you’re looking for exquisite creations from other great restaurants, exotic tastes from faraway countries or just plain old delicious American cooking, we’ve got something for you.

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Abby Mandel says she’s passionate about cranberries. The Upside-Down Cranberry Cake created by the longtime Food section columnist won her many converts. It was a unanimous choice for our annual Top 10 list.

There are several things to be careful about, as we learned from a few reader calls when we published this the first time. Be sure to use cake flour and the right size cake pan and to test the batter for doneness in the center of the cake. A toothpick inserted in the middle should come out clean. Because oven temperatures vary, the time may be slightly different than that indicated.

Upside-Down Cranberry Cake

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

TOPPING

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, plus more for greasing

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 tablespoons water

1 teaspoon cinnamon

4 cups cranberries, rinsed, picked over and at room temperature

* Generously grease 9-inch springform pan; wrap outside with foil (to avoid leakage). Set aside on baking sheet.

* Melt butter in medium saucepan. Add sugar, water and cinnamon. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring until sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Stir in cranberries. Pour into pan and spread evenly. Set aside.

CAKE

1 1/2 cups cake flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons butter, softened

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed

2 eggs

3/4 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

* Sift together flour, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

* Beat butter and granulated and brown sugars on medium speed until smooth and fluffy, about 1 minute. Add eggs, 1 at a time, mixing well after each addition. On low speed, add half of flour mixture. Mix until combined. Add sour cream and vanilla. Mix until combined. Add remaining flour mixture. Mix until smooth. Transfer batter to springform pan, spreading evenly over cranberries.

* Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, edges just begin to pull away from sides and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 45 to 50 minutes. Set on rack 10 minutes. Run knife around edge to loosen cake. Invert onto plate. Remove foil, ring and pan bottom. Replace any cranberries that fall. (Can be made up to two days ahead and kept at room temperature, covered airtight.) Cut into wedges and serve.

14 to 16 servings. Each of 16 servings: 403 calories; 232 mg sodium; 63 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 71 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.45 grams fiber.

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The daughter of Korean immigrants, Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee found out early that barbecue is one of the great common denominators in American culture. This recipe is one of her family’s favorites and now it is one of ours too.

There may be some unfamiliar ingredients. Korean malt syrup is what gives good Korean barbecue its distinctive flavor. Korean chile paste and sesame oil are slightly different from those found in other parts of Asia. With the number of Korean groceries we have in Southern California, you shouldn’t have any problem finding these ingredients, but if you do, substitute the more commonly available varieties.

Pork Ribs (Dwaeji Kalbi)

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 3 hours marinating

5 pounds pork back ribs

1 (1-inch) piece ginger root, minced

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 cup Korean chile paste

1/2 cup Korean malt syrup

1/2 cup sugar

1/8 cup soy sauce

3 tablespoons Korean sesame oil

1 teaspoon pepper

* If ribs are not separated, separate by cutting meat between the bones. Place in large bowl.

* Combine ginger, garlic, chile paste, malt syrup, sugar, soy sauce, oil and pepper in large bowl. Rub marinade generously over meat. Cover and refrigerate 3 hours or preferably overnight.

* Grill ribs over medium-high heat until done, about 5 to 6 minutes per side.

6 servings. Each serving: 590 calories; 929 mg sodium; 111 mg cholesterol; 40 grams fat; 30 grams carbohydrates; 25 grams protein; 0.11 gram fiber.

Deborah Madison is one of the best-selling cookbook authors in the country. This recipe is a good example why. Not only is it simple to make, it also has great depth and purity of flavor. After we tested this, several people said they’d never again cook artichokes any other way.

Roasting makes these artichokes almost sweet and a little crisp around the edges. Serve them plain or with garlic mayonnaise or spooned over a plate of soft polenta and covered with thin shavings of Parmesan cheese.

Roasted Artichokes

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes * Vegetarian

4 to 6 medium artichokes

Juice of 1 large lemon

Water

Olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

Bouquet garni consisting of 4 thyme sprigs and 2 bay leaves

2 tablespoons dry white wine or water

* Snap off several layers of the tough outer leaves of artichokes by pulling them downward so that they break off at the base. Stop when inner leaves become a lighter yellowish green and look tender. Trim stems and slice off top third of artichokes. With a paring knife, smooth rough areas around base, removing any dark green parts. Cut trimmed artichoke into sixths. Remove fuzzy chokes of with paring knife. As you work, drop trimmed artichokes into bowl with lemon juice and enough water to cover. When all are done, drain, pat artichokes dry with towel and toss with enough oil to moisten well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

* Place in single layer in lightly oiled 13x9-inch baking dish. Add bouquet garni and wine, cover with wax paper, then with foil. Bake at 400 degrees 35 minutes, then uncover and bake until crisp around edges and beginning to brown, about 25 minutes more.

4 servings. Each serving: 137 calories; 445 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1.87 grams fiber.

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Though the list of ingredients may be long for Test Kitchen Assistant Mayi Brady’s curry, it comes together in a snap. In fact, it’s a great quick-fix for busy nights when you don’t think you have any time to cook. With this easy raita and a little steamed rice, you’ve got a tasty dinner in no time at all.

Mixing the spices yourself makes the dish more aromatic than it would be using a commercially prepared combination. And frying them before adding the other ingredients only makes them more so.

Cauliflower Curry

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 25 minutes * Vegetarian

1 tablespoon oil

1 onion, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 (2-inch) piece ginger root, minced

2 serrano peppers, seeded (if desired) and minced, or more to taste

2 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1 (16-ounce) bag frozen cauliflower florets

1 cup coconut milk

1 tablespoon lemon juice

* Heat oil over medium-high heat in large skillet. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and peppers and cook 2 minutes more. Add coriander, cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, mustard seeds and salt. Cook, stirring until very fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add cauliflower and mix well. Add coconut milk and lemon juice, reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes.

4 servings. Each serving: 197 calories; 334 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 2.98 grams fiber.

Cucumber Raita

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 5 minutes

1 cucumber

1 cup plain yogurt

1/2 teaspoon salt

Pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

* Peel and grate cucumber. Place cucumber in a bowl and add yogurt, salt, dash pepper and cumin. Mix well.

4 servings. Each serving: 63 calories; 349 mg sodium; 7 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.47 gram fiber.

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Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in Yountville is one of America’s greatest chefs in addition to being a Food section columnist. This recipe is an example of how sometimes it is the simplest things that elevate a dish from good to great. Its secret is not in the mix of ingredients or in any fancy creative strokes; it’s in the way Keller dries the skin of the fish so that it fries to a bacon-y crispness. It’s a little thing, but it means so much to the dish.

To dry the skin of the salmon, drag a knife blade gently but firmly over the skin several times, almost as if you are sharpening a razor on a strop. Use enough pressure to bring any water to the surface of the skin, then reverse direction to squeegee the water off the skin. Dry your blade and repeat until no more water rises to the surface. Place the filets skin-side up in a covered container that allows space between the skin and the lid to facilitate more drying until it’s time to prepare them.

Crisp-Skinned Salmon With Summer Succotash and Creamed Corn

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 25 minutes

1 cup fava beans, shelled, cooked until tender and shocked in ice water, skin removed

2 cups fresh corn kernels (about 2 ears), cooked until tender and shocked in ice water, plus 6 cups fresh corn kernels

1/2 cup diced red bell pepper

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt

3 tablespoons whipping cream

4 (4-ounce) salmon filets, skin dried by wiping with knife

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, for sauteing

* Saute fava beans, cooked corn, bell pepper and parsley in olive oil over low heat 3 to 4 minutes, season with salt to taste and set aside at room temperature (this succotash can be prepared 2 hours before serving).

* Puree 4 cups fresh corn in blender or food processor (if using blender, you may need to add 1/4 cup water to facilitate blending). Remove to strainer and set over bowl or saucepan. Press solids to extract as much corn juice as possible, then discard solids. You should have 3/4 to 1 cup corn juice. (A vegetable juicer can be used instead.)

* Gently heat corn juice in saucepan until juice begins to thicken (don’t boil). Add remaining 2 cups corn and whipping cream and cook gently until corn is tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

* Season both sides of filets with salt. Heat pan over high heat. Add enough vegetable oil to cover bottom to depth of 1/8 to 1/4 inch. When oil is hot but not smoking, lay filets skin-side down and reduce heat to medium (if using electric stove top, reduce heat before placing filets in pan). Press fish with spatula to flatten; if salmon curls, repeat. Cook until skin is crisp, about 3 minutes. Turn salmon and cook 10 seconds. Remove from pan and keep warm.

* Reheat succotash. Place spoonful of succotash in center of each plate. Spoon corn sauce around succotash. Place salmon filets skin side up on succotash.

4 servings. Each serving: 493 calories; 222 mg sodium; 65 mg cholesterol; 26 grams fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 27 grams protein; 1.75 grams fiber.

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Is there anything more glorious than a mountainous banana cream pie? Test Kitchen Director Donna Deane whipped this one together for a story on meringues, and it is truly a monumental version.

Making meringue toppings can be a little tricky. Deane recommends a few steps to ensure success. Before beginning, make sure your whipping bowl and beaters are completely free of grease. Make sure the egg whites are at room temperature. Add the sugar gradually rather than all at once. And whip the egg whites to stiff peaks; when you lift the beater out, a pointed peak should be left behind.

Banana Cream Pie

Active Work Time: 1 hour * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes

To make one of those glorious mile-high cream pies, multiply the Basic Meringue recipe by 1 1/2.

2/3 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon flour

3 cups milk

3 egg yolks, slightly beaten

1 tablespoon butter

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Master Pie Shell, baked

2 bananas, sliced

Basic Meringue

2 tablespoons sliced almonds

* Combine sugar, salt, cornstarch and flour in medium saucepan. Stir in milk until blended. Heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture begins to simmer and thicken. Boil 1 minute. Add a little hot mixture to yolks and return all yolk mixture to pan. Heat and stir until mixture thickens, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat and stir in butter and vanilla. Cover custard with plastic wrap and cool slightly.

* Spoon half of custard into Master Pie Shell. Top with banana slices. Spoon remaining custard over top of bananas, spreading evenly over top.

* Spoon and swirl Meringue over top of pie. Sprinkle with almonds. Bake at 400 degrees until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes.

8 servings. Each serving: 368 calories; 323 mg sodium; 113 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 54 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.19 gram fiber.

Variation: You can make delicious Graham Cracker Cream Pies using the Banana Cream Pie recipe. Make Filling for Banana Cream Pie recipe, omitting bananas and almonds. Crush 10 whole graham crackers and combine all but 2 tablespoons of them in a bowl with 1/4 cup sugar. Stir in 1/2 cup (1 stick) melted butter to make crumbly mixture. Pat that mixture into 9-inch pie plate and bake at 350 degrees 10 minutes. Let cool before filling. Spoon in cream filling, then top with Basic Meringue. Sprinkle with reserved graham cracker crumbs before baking. Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes.

Master Pie Shell

Active Work Time: 10 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes

1 cup flour, plus more for rolling

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup shortening or lard

2 to 3 tablespoons water

* Stir together flour and salt in large glass bowl. Cut shortening into flour until evenly distributed and particles are size of small peas. Sprinkle with water and gently stir with fork until water is blended into pastry and dough begins to form a ball; use your hands to shape.

* Roll dough out on lightly floured board to 11-inch diameter and lift into 9-inch pie plate, gently pressing dough into bottom and against sides of plate. Flute edges and trim. Prick all over with fork.

* Bake at 475 degrees until lightly browned, about 8 minutes.

Makes 1 (9-inch) single-crust pie shell.

Basic Meringue

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

4 egg whites

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/2 cup sugar

* Combine egg whites and cream of tartar in mixing bowl. Beat until foamy, about 30 seconds. Continue beating on medium-high speed until egg whites form soft peaks, about 30 seconds. Gradually beat in sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time. Continue beating until stiff peaks form and meringue has a glossy look and sugar is dissolved, 3 to 4 minutes.

Makes Meringue for 1 (9-inch) pie.

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When Heseon Park’s family moved to Southern California, their house had an avocado tree. She’s been in love with the fruit ever since and uses it in many ways.

This is something she put together for a Hollywood Bowl picnic. It won raves from her friends--and then from us, when we tested it to go with a story she wrote. She says the secret to these appetizers lies in toasting the tortillas first in garlic and butter: “They went great with bottles of a hard lemon beverage like ‘Doc’ Otis’.”

Hollywood Bowl Shrimp and Avocado Quesadillas

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes

3 tablespoons butter

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

8 burrito-size flour tortillas

1 pound shredded Jack and Cheddar cheese

1 large, ripe yet firm avocado, halved and sliced

1 pound peeled, medium cooked shrimp

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

1/2 bunch green onions, minced

Seasoned salt

Fresh tomato salsa, for serving

* Melt about 1 teaspoon butter in large skillet with some garlic over medium heat; add 1 tortilla and lightly brown bottom, 1 minute.

* Flip tortilla, scatter 1/4 cup cheese over half of tortilla, place 2 slices avocado, 4 or 5 shrimp, some chopped tomato and green onions in single layer on top of cheese. Sprinkle with seasoned salt.

* Spread 1/4 cup more cheese on top of mixture, then fold tortilla over. Toast both sides until cheese is melted and quesadilla is golden brown, 1 minute.

* Remove from skillet, cut into triangles or quarters. Repeat with remaining tortillas until all quesadillas are made. Serve with salsa.

8 servings. Each serving: 423 calories; 676 mg sodium; 173 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 28 grams protein; 0.56 gram fiber.

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Almost every Thai restaurant in Southern California serves one version or another of this soup from our intern Jet Tila. And no wonder: The combination of coconut milk, lime juice, fish sauce and lemon grass from the stock is sweet and fragrant.

What’s even more amazing, once you’ve made the stock (which can be frozen and used for many other soups), the whole thing comes together in 15 minutes--that’s less time than it takes to call in an order!

Coconut Chicken Soup (Tom Kha Gai)

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

4 cups Thai Chicken Stock

2 (3-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 (15-ounce) can straw mushrooms, drained

1 to 3 roasted Thai peppers

5 tablespoons fish sauce

3 1/2 tablespoons lime juice

1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk (not light)

1 1/2 cups chopped cabbage

Kaffir (Thai) lime leaves, for garnish

Cilantro leaves, for garnish

* Bring Thai Chicken Stock to simmer over medium-high heat in large pot. Add chicken, mushrooms and peppers and cook until chicken is cooked through, about 4 minutes. Stir in fish sauce, lime juice and coconut milk. Add chopped cabbage and cook until just tender, about 1 minute. Divide among serving bowls and garnish each with 1 to 2 lime leaves and cilantro.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 216 calories; 1,270 mg sodium; 12 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 2.18 grams fiber.

Thai Chicken Stock

Active Work Time: 10 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

This Thai chicken stock is the base for the soup recipe.

1 chicken carcass

8 to 10 cups water

3/4 to 1 cup thinly sliced galangal

6 stalks lemon grass, lower thick portion only, pounded

10 kaffir (Thai) lime leaves

* Place chicken carcass in stockpot. Add water, galangal and lemon grass. Roll lime leaves and crush lightly with hand, then add to pan. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 45 minutes to 1 hour. Strain.

6 cups. Each cup: 20 calories; 580 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0 fiber.

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Test Kitchen Director Donna Deane made the list twice this year, with her second win this deceptively luxurious main course that can be put together in less than half an hour.

She recommends serving this with steamed winter squash, perfect for this time of year. The pork chops can be done so quickly that you should start steaming the squash first, then cook the main dish while you’re waiting for the squash to be done.

Pork Chops With Tarragon Cream

Active Work Time: 5 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 25 minutes

4 center-cut pork loin chops with bone

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 cup unsalted chicken broth

1/2 cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon minced tarragon

* Season pork loin chops with salt and pepper. Heat butter and oil in large heavy skillet until hot. Add pork chops and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Turn and brown second side, about 5 minutes. Remove chops from pan and cover with foil to keep warm.

* Reduce heat to medium-low. Add garlic and cook, stirring, about 1 minute. Stir in chicken broth, scraping up browned bits from bottom of pan. Stir in whipping cream. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook until sauce begins to thicken, about 5 minutes.

* Return chops to skillet. Cover and simmer over low heat until chops are light pink in the center, about 5 minutes. Stir tarragon into sauce during last few minutes of cooking.

2 servings. Each serving: 330 calories; 241 mg sodium; 98 mg cholesterol; 35 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.20 gram fiber.

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Maria Escandon has made lots of “best” lists, but probably not for her cooking. There’s no doubt, though, that this chicken dish the novelist and screenwriter (“Esperanza’s Box of Saints”) created in honor of one of her main characters is a real winner.

This is a fine example of a very cosmopolitan style of Mexican cooking; the chipotle adds a smoky, warm edge to the cream sauce but isn’t overpoweringly hot. And the grace notes of sesame seeds, while entirely traditional, emphasize the nuttiness of the cream.

Esperanza’s Chipotle Chicken

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 50 minutes

6 whole chicken legs

3 tablespoons oil

1/2 cup milk

1 cup Mexican crema

1 to 3 canned chipotle chiles

Salt

1/4 cup chicken broth

2 dried California chiles

3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted

Warmed corn tortillas

* Cook chicken in oil in skillet over medium heat until browned, 6 to 8 minutes each side. Cook in batches, if necessary. Remove skin and set chicken aside in Dutch oven.

* Combine milk, 1/2 cup crema, chipotles to taste and salt to taste in heavy saucepan. Bring to boil. Pour into blender and blend until smooth. Pour sauce over chicken and cook over low heat 15 to 20 minutes, turning once. Add remaining 1/2 cup crema and chicken broth, and cook 5 minutes longer, or until cooked through, gently mixing sauce.

* When ready to serve, place chicken on heated platter. With scissors, cut California chiles crosswise into thin rings, discarding seeds. Sprinkle chicken with sesame seeds and decorate with chile rings. Serve with tortillas.

6 servings. Each serving, without tortillas: 421 calories; 164 mg sodium; 93 mg cholesterol; 38 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 15 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

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