Cassoulet
For this classic stew from southern France, white beans and a variety of meats are simmered together for hours. It’s a rich, fragrant, hearty dish, ideal for a brisk winter night.
* Chez Mimi: Mimi simmers duck, goose confit, pork loin, sweet Italian sausage and a touch of tomato paste in rich duck stock. At last, it’s topped with bread crumbs and broiled golden brown. (Cassoulet, $24.50.) Chez Mimi, 246 26th St., Santa Monica, (310) 393-0558.
* Mimosa: This cassoulet is cooked three times. First, the beans are cooked separately from the meats (duck confit, Toulouse sausage, salt pork and garlic sausage), then they’re cooked together, and finally they’re baked in a casserole to create a robust, meaty stew. (Cassoulet, $19.) Mimosa, 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-8895.
* Pastis: At this cozy bistro, cassoulet is made with duck confit, Toulouse sausage and garlic sausage. It arrives at the table dusted with crisp bread crumbs. (Toulouse cassoulet, $18.) Pastis, 8114 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-8822.
* Bistro 45: This Pasadena bistro makes a lighter cassoulet with a less reduced veal stock and a few more vegetables. It’s still hearty, though. It includes duck meat, foie gras, lamb or venison (depending on what’s available), lamb sausage, garlic sausage, glazed mushrooms and onions, and baby white beans. It’s served in a large white bowl garnished with watercress and baby vegetables. (Cassoulet d’Issal, $21.35.) Bistro 45, 45 S. Mentor Ave., Pasadena, (626) 795-2478.
* Pinot Provence: You feel as if you’re in France at Joachim Splichal’s Orange County restaurant, with its authentic food and decor. It serves an elegant cassoulet made of goose, foie gras, white beans, bacon, garlic, parsley and, of course, a final covering of bread crumbs. (Cassoulet, $22.50.) Pinot Provence, Westin South Coast Plaza Hotel, 686 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa, (714) 444-5900.
* Ambiento: This small, sweet Glendale cafe starts with duck soup, using only the meat of the duck neck, then adds six kinds of beans plus bacon, ham, herbes de Provence and a generous amount of Beaujolais and lets it simmer for hours. Just before serving, duck confit tops off this tasty, comforting dish. (Duck confit with Ambiento Cassoulet, $11.50.) Ambiento, 230 N. Brand Ave., Glendale, (818) 244-8822.