Grand Dining, Canyon View

Perched high among the pine trees overlooking a creek and a shimmering green golf course, Canyon Lodge American Grill at the Aliso Creek Inn in South Laguna is as unpretentious as a pair of old Hush Puppies.

And just as comfortable.

If you gave Ralph Lauren a treehouse to decorate, this is what he would come up with: a cozy nest with berry red upholstery, old black-and-white photographs and Indian rugs hung on the walls. The only thing missing is a rocking chair on the porch.

All of this, as well as the rustic furniture and a fireplace, makes the dining room a homey spot to settle in for a long brunch.

For nearly 40 years, this family operation, which includes Aliso Creek Inn and the golf course next door, was called Ben Brown’s. When its namesake passed away, the name was changed to Canyon Lodge; old-timers still think it’s Ben Brown’s, and that’s fine with his widow.

It was built on a beautiful patch of land between the canyons and the Pacific, much of it visible from the restaurant’s big windows and patio tables.

We didn’t have reservations when we stumbled in on our way to a crowded cafe nearby, but we were greeted like old friends and immediately shown to a table with a view. We were treated warmly by the hostess and waitress and experienced fine service from start to finish.

And prices are reasonable: From $7 to $13 for a choice of 15 entrees--large portioned omelets to steak sandwiches--and a basket of freshly baked banana bread. The only item I would not recommend is the oatmeal, because there are too many other good choices.

The sauteed chicken in pastry is good, a creamy casserole made with tarragon and mushrooms and topped with a pastry hat. The blueberry pancakes--which come with thick, smoked bacon--are fluffy, plump with fruit and great with warm maple syrup.

The fussy eater in our party selected the thick, eggy French toast with stewed apples and declared it delicious. Simple eggs are spiced up with salsa and peppers, and the mountain of smoked trout, lox, onions, fresh tomatoes and capers provides a salty bite quickly relieved by creamy cheese in the smoked fish plate.

I couldn’t resist snatching bites of my daughter’s eggs Benedict--perfectly poached eggs--and purloining my friend’s omelet--a puffy cloud filled with three cheeses dripping over the house potatoes.

Order the house potatoes. These terrific spuds are mixed with onions and peppers and cooked until crispy. Why can’t restaurants cook a proper potato? Canyon Lodge may have perfected this art, by adding the right amount of onion and spice and grilling it.

All of the side dishes are fresh and original, like the caramelized onions with the steak sandwich and the fresh strawberries and whipped cream with the Belgian waffle.

Save room for the double chocolate fudge mousse cake with raspberry sauce. It outshines the tepid apple crisp with vanilla ice cream that should have come with more caramel sauce.

* Brunch hours are 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. 31106 Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 499-2663.