More Than Dixie in the Southland

The name Memphis conjures images of a metropolis in Tennessee, or perhaps the city in ancient Egypt for which it is named. But Memphis Soul Cafe & Bar in Costa Mesa is more like an island. First, it’s on an island--or, more accurately, in an island, the triangular island whose sides are formed by the 405 freeway to the north, the 55 freeway to the east and the 73 freeway to the west.

And then, since the landscape of this pocket of land consists mostly of strip malls, scattered roadside businesses, fast-food outlets and hotels, the convivial Memphis, with its inviting interior and enclosed patio, is like an island retreat. The blond wood walls, trapezoidal windows and amiable-but-not-intrusive waiters position it somewhere between Jetsons retro and hometown hip. Whichever, the setting is right for a menu that veers from the South to the Southwest and beyond.

Over the years, the popcorn shrimp tacos on the lunch menu have proven to be the high point of many a balmy day. As always, the fresh and tender shrimp, lightly breaded with cornmeal and cradled in a couple of tortillas (for easy eating) are sided by splendid, chunky potato salad crunchy with diced red onion and jazzed with chiles and abetted by a resilient salsa of white corn kernels, onion, red bell pepper and lime juice.

And the cornmeal-breaded catfish in the po’boy sandwich is right up there too, especially with an extra dollop of the spunky horseradish mayonnaise--and as much of the mound of delicate fried onions as you can get down (considering how much like candy they are, that should be all of them). Only the fried chicken breast has been dull, though dipping it in the accompanying lemon-thyme sauce can change that.

An after-work refreshment and snack or pre-movie supper at Memphis’ bar can offer a gentle transition to a relaxing evening, especially if it includes the Zuni fry bread dinner appetizer. Each time I’ve eaten at Memphis, this savory pizza-like disc, bubbling with melted Jack cheese, has arrived piping hot, giving off a heady aroma of onions, poblano chiles and sage-perfumed pesto. And there should be no difficulty finding an appropriate beverage, whether a bottle from the respectable list of California wines or an intriguing boutique brewery beer.

Unfortunately, several dinner appetizers have turned out to be less successful. The mashed potato pancakes should be crisp on the outside but were far from it, though the well-textured, vinegary collard greens they came with were as good as they could possibly be. And the bland squash soup, with bits of stringy crab and an attractive float of sorrel-and-oil emulsion for decoration, was twice served tepid. The gumbo, a lively version of this favorite, came with an overcooked timbale of rice (the same tired rice that accompanied the under-flavored seafood jambalaya entree.)

For dinner, just a couple of the entrees have been on a par with that excellent fry bread, among them the grilled marinated pork chop. Pork chops, especially ones as thick as those served at Memphis, have a way of becoming dry when thoroughly cooked. But here the marinade kept them moist and tender while adding zesty flavor, and besides, they were in good company with a heap of creamy polenta that’s got real corn taste and some of those collard greens I liked so much with the potato pancakes.

Seafood, however, has been a mixed bag. On one recent evening, a thick, white halibut special looked and tasted great atop those collared greens with some black olives added for extra zing. Unfortunately, seared but limp sea scallops didn’t rise to the same level. Nor did their topping of fried strips of yam, which should have been crisp but weren’t. Still, the mashed potatoes had been nicely enlivened with chopped chives and hints of smoked salmon.

Memphis may not be one of the Paradise Islands, but it can make you feel as if you’ve gone on a brief vacation, even if you don’t know exactly where. And anyway, if you order well, you might just feel like going back there again, wherever that is.

Lunch is a good value, with sandwiches and salads in the $6.75 to $8.95 range. Dinner prices are moderate: appetizers $5.25 to $7.25 and entrees $11.50 to $16.50.

BE THERE

Memphis Soul Cafe & Bar, 2920 Bristol St., Costa Mesa. (714) 432-7685. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Major credit cards.