In the Hip, Lively New W Hotel, Mojo Serves Nuevo Latino

The rain had stopped, yet when we pulled up in front of the new hotel W Los Angeles-Westwood (the former Westwood Marquis), we stared, puzzled, at the yellow “Caution” sign and a river of water pouring down the steps. We watched as a couple emerged from the hotel and proceeded to blithely step right down the same staircase without seeming to get their feet wet. On closer inspection we realized the water was flowing beneath the steps. That created the optical illusion.

Stepping into the hotel, my guest, a Westwood resident, was stunned: “Oh my God, it looks so different! It was so old-fashioned before,” she whispers, enthralled with the new look. Talk about a transformation. Think Philippe Starck crossed with Pee-wee Herman (in the “Playhouse” days). The decor is fun and, needless to say, very of the moment. There’s lots of soft cushy furniture for reclining, branches crammed into tall glass vases, hand-hewn wooden bowls filled with apples, and color, color, color. The staid Westwood Marquis could never have imagined itself this lively, or I dare say, this hip.

The restaurants in each W (so far the small chain includes hotels in Seattle, New York, San Francisco and Honolulu) are distinct from one another. At the new Westwood branch, the restaurant is called Mojo and the theme is Nuevo Latino. The chef is David Slatkin, who cut his teeth on Latin cooking in Florida before bringing a tropical influence to the South Bay at Descanso, South Bay Fusion and later David’s Restaurant.

Slatkin’s menu for Mojo starts with a long list of inventive cocktails and premium tequilas. Appetizers are ideal for noshing at the bar with one of those cocktails in hand. They include a slew of seviches as they’re spelled on the menu, vibrant seafood cocktails, flaky empanadas with three different fillings, ropa vieja duck tamale--and much more. Service is still a little shaky, but as long as your waiter keeps replenishing your mojito, you may not notice.

The music is lively, the crowd a mix of bewildered old-timers and Gen-Xers, all tucking into hot paprika prawns with a dynamite green almond rice, char-grilled sirloin with chimichurri sauce, or some smoked double-cut pork chops with gusto. Just be sure to save room for the dreamy strawberry tres leches, a Latin version of strawberry shortcake complete with whipped cream and caramelized bananas.

Mojo looks to be a bright addition to the Westwood scene. Keep this address in mind for dinner or drinks before or after a lecture, concert or film.

I don’t imagine they deliver to library carrels, do they?

BE THERE

Mojo, W Los Angeles-Westwood, 930 Hilgard Ave., Los Angeles, (310) 208-8765. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Small plates $7 to $14; large plates $21 to $30. Full bar. Valet parking.