1997 Casale dello Sparviero Chianti Classico

Paying $14 for a Chianti Classico of this quality is a bargain these days. And this 1997 from Casale dello Sparviero exhibits all the characteristics we’ve come to love in good Chianti. Tightly structured, it is the color of black cherries, with a profundity you don’t expect in a Chianti at this price level. It’s a Chianti with some muscle: This little black rooster crows!

Drink it with roast pork, ribs, grilled pork chops and pollo alla Diavola--Roman-style grilled chicken with lemon and lots of black pepper.

About $14. Available at Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454. Or ask your retailer to contact the distributor, Villa Italia Gourmet Food & Wine Inc., (650) 873-6060.