1999 Pazo de Senorans Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain

This is a sensational expression of an aromatic white grape grown in Galicia on the northwest coast of Spain. More minerally and concentrated than other Albarinos around, it displays a lingering finish that cries out for seafood. In Galicia, it would accompany boiled lobsters or those strange barnacle-like creatures called percebes. Open a bottle to enjoy with shellfish or grilled salmon. It also makes a fine aperitif.

About $16. Available at Beverly Glen Marketplace, 2964 N. Beverly Glen Circle, Beverly Hills, (310) 475-0829; Hi-Time Wine Cellars, 250 Ogle St., Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; and the Wine Merchant, 9701 Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 278-7322.