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BEST WESTERN

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Oh, Give Me a Tome: Debbie Bull’s tales of famous Western stars and their flamboyant styles in “Hillbilly Hollywood” (Rizzoli, $39.95) include a detailed flower-chain suit designed by Nathan Turk for crooner Rose Maddox. There’s enough glitter and fringe to stop a charging longhorn in its tracks in Los Angeles photographer Lisa Eisner’s ode to female rodeo queens, “Rodeo Girl” (Greybull Press, $49.95).

’ Starting in 1947, Western couture tailor Nudie Cohn put Dale Evans in fringe, Patsy Cline in fancy skirts, Johnny Cash in black, Cher in her customized boots and Elvis in 24-karat gold lame. The gaudier the better, vintage Nudie is now highly collectible and available at Decades, Los Angeles, and Resurrection, Los Angeles.

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Denim is never out of fashion on the rodeo circuit. Today’s rhinestone cowgirls favor Manuel one-of-a-kind hand-embroidered wool pants with rhinestone studs ($6,995, at Billy Martin’s, Sunset Plaza), and Big Star studded cotton denim “Flirt” jeans ($265, at Billy Martin’s, Sunset Plaza).

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Western tradition calls for pointy Texan classics (just ask George W.), but urban cowgirls opt for more luxury footing such as this Suede Fight Boot ($700, at Jimmy Choo Beverly Hills).

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From the 1930s through the ‘50s, Thomas Molesworth’s witty, ornamental Western furniture enlivened hotel lobbies, dude ranches and private houses (including a den for President Dwight Eisenhower in Gettysburg, Pa.). To get the look: Fighting Bear Antiques, Jackson, Wyo.; J. Michael Patrick, New West Furniture, Cody, Wyo.; Ken Siggins, Triangle Z Ranch Furniture, Cody, Wyo.

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Former cowpoke and cattle broker Grady Spears, now a chef, restaurateur and cookbook author (“A Cowboy in the Kitchen”), brings his brand of Texas chow to Beverly Hills at the restaurant Reata. You won’t find his tenderloin tamales with cilantro pecan mash on any chuck wagon menu.

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In 1980, “Urban Cowboy’s” Debra Winger made the Stetson look stylish. Today’s buffalo gals can find an embroidered wool update by Catherine Malandrino ($250, at Catherine Malandrino, New York City).

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Fancy belt buckles are considered trophies on the rodeo circuit. Rocker-cowgirl types such as LeAnn Rimes of “Coyote Ugly” collect vintage-inspired rhinestone belts from Tres Flores ($200 to $275, at Ron Herman/Fred Segal Melrose). Prize-winning buckles include those in gold and silver (Comstock Heritage hand-engraved rodeo buckle, $495, at Billy Martin’s, Sunset Plaza).

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The bolo tie lost its cornball status when Gwyneth Paltrow wore a ruby tassel lariat by Cathy Waterman to the 1999 Oscars. Check out the Cathy Waterman emerald, turquoise, platinum and diamond vine tassel lariat ($13,450, at Barneys New York) and Adrienne Teeguarden horsehair bolo tie with turquoise toggle ($95, at Billy Martin’s, Sunset Plaza).

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Pint-sized cowgirls and cowboys can do the two-step in style this fall with an hombre plaid Western shirt ($42), cowboy tee ($22) and denim rose skirt ($34) at Lost & Found children’s clothing (Los Angeles). Or they can tote a Happy Trails lunchbox ($14, at Zipper, Los Angeles).

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Los Angeles’ Gene Autry Western Heritage Museum houses a comprehensive collection of the singing cowboy’s scripts, photographs and memorabilia and is organizing the show “How the West Was Worn,” opening Oct. 13, 2001, and remaining at the museum until Jan. 27, 2002.

’ If you can’t wait until next year for the 25th anniversary reissue of Tom Robbins’ novel “Even Cowgirls Get the Blues,” you can rent the video. Other icons of Hollywood cowgirl style worth viewing: Marilyn Monroe in her final role as cowgirl divorcee in “The Misfits,” and Jane Fonda in the spaghetti send-up “Cat Ballou.”

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And Beverly Hills is home to those who like their ostrich-and-leather saddlebags branded by Christian Dior ($1,910, at Christian Dior, Beverly Hills).

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Research assistant: Jill Barrett.

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