The Big-City Antidote

We all get tired of the mall. Thankfully, there’s a place for car-bound Angelenos who crave the old-fashioned charm of an upscale East Coast town: Larchmont Village. Although it’s located just minutes from downtown, in Hancock Park, the only clue that this peaceful enclave is a part of the sprawling metropolis is the clear view of the Hollywood sign to the north. This quaint mom-and-pop shopping district is surrounded by tree-lined streets and homes with history and character not often found in a city obsessed with newness.

Rambunctious pre-adolescent boys with tousled hair ride scooters past designer-dressed diners, and ponytailed girls in uniforms from the nearby Marlborough school park their shiny new cars in front of Jamba Juice to dart inside for an afternoon snack.

The idyllic stretch has not escaped the chain store invasion of Starbucks, Blockbuster Video, Rite Aid and others. But it retains a handful of one-of-a-kind boutiques and specialty clothing and home furnishings stores you won’t find at the Beverly Center or Fashion Square.

The area is also becoming a destination for fashion-conscious shoppers in search of boutique brands such as Earl Jeans. The L.A.-based company, known for slim-fitting pants with the perfect flare, opened its first store on Larchmont earlier this year. “It’s an old-fashioned village with a very hip clientele. It’s undercover cool,” said Suzanne Freiwald. She owns Earl Jeans with husband Ben Freiwald, who added: “We are an understated brand so it suited our sensibility to open our first store on Larchmont, rather than Rodeo Drive next to Gucci.”

Although much of the merchandise in stores here is expensive, there are good buys. Designer Lisa Yoonchalard, who has sold her fashion and home accessories to Fred Segal in the past, felt the retailer’s markups were hurting her sales. She decided to open a boutique on Larchmont where she could reach the same customers as Fred Segal and offer her accessories at lower prices. “I try to price things fairly,” said Yoonchalard, who offers very reasonably priced items, such as coin purses and straw slippers, for less than $10.

Meghan Misaki, who co-owns the recently opened Noni, which carries clothes by new designers, described Larchmont as “old school. . . . It has a San Francisco feel, rather than a Melrose Avenue feel.” And Melrose, she added, “is just so L.A.”

The Route: Start at the west corner of Larchmont Boulevard and 1st Street. Head north on Larchmont, crossing to the east side of the street at Beverly Boulevard. Walk south on the east side of Larchmont to complete the loop.

Pickett Fences, 111 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 467-2140. With weathered wood beams and floors, this place may look rustic, but the clothes are city chic. For women, the store stocks Juicy Couture and Michael Stars T-shirts ($25 and up), Diane von Furstenberg wrap dresses ($250 and up) and a selection of velvet slides for $28 a pair. For men, there are Diesel Jeans and Lucky Jeans ($115 and up), as well as jaunty Reyn Spooner Hawaiian shirts, which start at $68. Whimsical gift items include scented candles and plastic hula girls.

Petticoats, 115 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 467-1730. Also run by Pickett Fences owner Joane Henneberger, this shop offers flirty lingerie and pajamas in “I Love Lucy,” leopard or lip prints by P.J. Salvage and Nick & Nora ($54 and up). The store has plenty of choices for those in need of baby gifts: T-shirts and diaper covers in 1950s-esque cowboy prints by Baby Sacks of Beverly Hills starting at $20, and stuffed animals made from recycled vintage linens by K.C.’s Closet and Grandma Nancy ($24 to $64).

Philippe David, 141 N. Larchmont Blvd. (323) 461-1437. Women visit this rare independent shoe store for its well-edited collection of trendy faux python slides, techno sneakers and Prada-like mules with heart-shaped cutouts. Although there are isolated pairs from expensive designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Anne Klein, most of the footwear here, from brands like Impo, Seychelles and Ann Marino, costs less than $100.

Earl Jeans, 141 1/2 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 463-1556. Leather pants in different colors (about $560), jeans in different washes ($110 to $140), denim jackets and corduroy pants.

Lifestylz, 143 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 871-8963. Pink marabou-covered telephones ($70), whimsical wedding albums and Smashing Grandpa glam T-shirts for the princess in your life. On the more serious side, Lifestylz stocks Portuguese pottery, including platters painted with pineapples, gravy boats with vine patterns and plates in the shape of asparagus stems, from $38 to $75.

Confetti, 161 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 466-7727. This small boutique carries easy-fitting women’s wear, including flax linen drawstring pants and matching blouses in earthy tones by Jeanne Engelhart ($52 to $75), L.A.-based designer Rose Nichols’ evening wear separates ($200 to $500) and updated ball skirts with bows running down the sides by Din ($150 to $250).

Leonida’s, 201 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 860-7966. The only L.A. branch of the famous Belgian chocolatier founded in 1913. This haven for chocolate lovers features more than 90 varieties flown in daily. The store’s signature candy is a coffee cream, which costs about $1 and consists of a mocha center surrounded by a thin layer of praline, topped with a whole hazelnut and covered in white chocolate. A pound of chocolates costs about $26, and the pleasant salespeople give out free samples.

Lisa Y., 205 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 467-4641. Lisa Yoonchalard’s plastic beaded purses, straw bags and woven plastic shoppers with bamboo handles ($9 to $80) are mainstays at this Asian-themed store, which also carries silver metal thermoses painted with flowers ($59) and multicolored woven mats priced at about $30. For pampered pooches, Yoonchalard designs machine washable silk chinoiserie-print dog beds for $48.

Noni, 225 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 469-3239. The most cutting-edge spot on the Larchmont strip hosts guest DJs on the weekends and has a sales counter built on top of a fish aquarium. Tiny tops, lean sweaters and slim pants by trendy lines such as E Play, MAG and Tessuto ($25 to $400) are favorites. One of the coolest pieces at Noni is an $88 pink-and-black block print tank top with invisible clear plastic shoulder straps by Mia Y.

Village Footwear, 248 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 461-3619. Comfort is the word at this men’s and women’s shoe store, which specializes in brands like Arche, Camper and Clark’s, and was one of the first places in town to stock sandals and loafers by orthopedic surgeon-turned-shoe designer Taryn Rose of L.A. Unfortunately, comfort doesn’t come cheap; shoes cost $75 to $400.

Hollyhock, 214 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 931-3400. This light and airy home furnishings store, with tropical peach- and green-colored walls, stocks tasteful tabletop accessories, including traditional crystal glassware by William Yeoward ($50 to $1,000) and more contemporary crystal by Simon Pierce ($100 to $500). Hollyhock also carries antiques. On a recent visit, pieces included a Regency-style Pembroke table and a Sheraton bookcase. For those on a budget, there’s also a nice selection of entertaining, gardening and design books.

Larchmont Beauty Center, 208 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 461-0162. It’s easy to spend hours here trying on fragrances by Demeter in flavors like cucumber and martini, sniffing candles by Rigaud and Trapp or testing lotions by Caswell Massey and Crabtree & Evelyn. The humongous stock includes hard-to-find products from New York’s Bliss Spa and nail polish by Sunset Plaza’s Jessica Nail Clinic. Hundreds of hair bands overflow from baskets on the floor, and glass cases display the latest in rhinestone hair clips and barrettes. Browsers are welcome. Spa services and haircuts are available in the back.

Flicka, 204 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 466-5822. Baby and toddler, girls and boys clothes to die for, including cardigans with pictures of ducks, poodles or flags on the chest ($40 and up), darling red poodle skirts ($79), PJs and bodysuits. The store makes great infant gift baskets and is currently carrying loads of kids’ Halloween costumes--everything from glittery lilac angel wings ($58) to a black velvet pant and silk kimono ensemble ($94.)

Landis General Store, 142 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 465-7998. One-stop shopping for embroidery thread, puzzles, socks, candles, cat-shaped sequin coin purses and even dress shields (fabric pieces that attach to the underarm with a band of elastic to protect clothes from perspiration). An offshoot of Landis Department Store, which operated on Larchmont from the 1930s to the 1990s, the general store recently expanded to offer home decorating items such as Christmas-themed throw pillows and place mats in Provence prints. Custom cards and invitations from Crane’s and William Arthur can be ordered from the adjacent stationary store.

Chevalier’s Books, 126 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 465-1334. This general bookstore for children and adults stocks a small but sophisticated collection and prides itself on personal service.

j.o. on Larchmont, 120 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 466-0878. Contemporary decorative accessories include Chilewich Raybowls ($34 to $47) made with stretched fabric over metal frames, sculpted angel candles ($30) and Patricia Garrett ceramic vases and salt and pepper shakers ($40 to $200) shaped like gourds, walnuts, avocados and more.

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The Scoop

Where: North Larchmont Boulevard between Beverly Boulevard and 1st Street in the Hancock Park section of Los Angeles.

Hours: Most stores are open from 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. Many are closed on Sundays.

Parking: Two-hour metered parking is available along Larchmont. Some free street parking can be found on the surrounding side streets.

Stores: See accompanying story.

ATM: Bank of America ATM at 100 N. Larchmont Blvd.; Washington Mutual ATM at 101 N. Larchmont Blvd.; Fidelity Express ATM at 157 N. Larchmont Blvd.; Wells Fargo ATM at 245 N. Larchmont Blvd.

Where to Grab a Bite: See E6

Food for Thought

There are plenty of places in Larchmont Village to stop for lunch, dinner or just a snack.

Z Pizza, 123 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 466-6969. A casual, self-service gourmet pizza and calzone joint that offers exotic toppings such as lime chicken and veggie burger pieces.

Le Petit Greek, 127 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 464-5160. This lively Greek taverna with romantic outdoor tables serves fish and chicken kebabs, Greek salads, hummus, grape leaves, taramasalata and other appetizers. Most entrees are $12 to $18.

Village Pizzeria, 131 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 465-5566. Reasonably priced New York-style pizza, pasta and pitchers of beer are mainstays at this informal spot.

Prado, 244 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 467-3871. An upscale Caribbean restaurant offering divinely spicy shrimp in Jamaican black pepper sauce, sweet corn tamales, Louisiana crab cakes, red velvet raspberry cake and more. Lunch and dinner. Most entrees cost $15 to $20.

Cafe Chapeau, 236 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 462-4985. This breakfast- and lunch-only spot is a bit of a dive, but omelets, soups and sandwiches are priced under $10.

Kiku Sushi, 246 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 464-1200. Moderately priced, if not spectacular, sushi in a stark setting. No liquor license.

Sam’s Bagels, 150 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 469-1249. Chewy New York-style bagels in more than a dozen varieties, low-fat and nonfat cream cheese spreads, sandwiches and soups. The low-fat artichoke/Parmesan cream cheese is excellent.

Chan Dara, 310 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 467-1052. This moderately priced Thai eatery draws a young crowd with its rock ‘n’ roll music and pleasant outdoor patio.