Taste the Fertile Croissant

You’ve never seen croissants like those at Vrej, a Middle Eastern pastry shop in Pasadena. What makes them different is the spoonful of zaatar inside. Zaatar is a mixture of thyme, sesame seeds and tart ground sumac berries that is often combined with olive oil as a dip for bread. Putting the mixture inside the bread instead of serving it on the side makes for a neat package that is easy to transport and serve. Even without the filling, the croissants would be notable. They are huge, and the dough is light, fluffy and faintly sweet.

Croissants with zaatar filling, $1.25 each at Vrej pastry shop, 1074 N. Allen Ave., Pasadena. (626) 797-2331.