SPEARS of SPRING

A springtime menu in Germany, Alsace, Austria or Switzerland may read as follows: white asparagus with smoked salmon, white asparagus with new potatoes, white asparagus with veal in morel sauce. The spargelkarte (white asparagus menu) always lists the white asparagus first, as the star attraction, while such glamorous foods such as lobster, veal and salmon are relegated to secondary roles, mere supporting actors.

What is it that gives this slender star its cult-like status? These rare white stalks have been regarded as delicacies for more than 2,000 years. As early as 200 BC, the Romans had how-to-grow instructions for white asparagus. They enjoyed it in season and were the first to preserve it by freezing: In the 1st century, fast chariots and runners took asparagus from the Tiber River area to the snowline of the Alps, where it was kept. Roman emperors maintained special asparagus fleets to gather and carry the choicest spears to the empire. The characteristics of asparagus were so well known that Emperor Caesar Augustus defined “haste” to his underlings as “quicker than you can cook asparagus.”

For Europeans today, white asparagus is celebrated not only for its rich, creamy, delicate flavor but also because it signifies the arrival of spring--warmer weather, sunshine, lighter clothes and lighter cuisine. Out with stew, cassoulet and choucroute garni. In with steamed white asparagus accompanying just about anything you can think of.

In German towns like Schliengen, where I’m from, the transformation seems to happen almost overnight. I remember going to bed one night and waking up the next morning to find Frischer Spargeln (fresh white asparagus) signs set proudly in front of every restaurant, a seemingly spontaneous act of defiant collusion as we shed ourselves of winter and ushered in the long-awaited spring.

The laborious effort of harvesting white asparagus begins daily at 5:30 a.m. It must be done in early morning or at the day’s end to avoid exposure to the sun, which would turn the asparagus green.

The long stretches of dirt mounds are covered with black plastic sheets, which prevent the white asparagus from developing chlorophyll and create a warming hothouse effect to encourage earlier readiness for harvest. When the plastic is removed, little cracks in the surface of the mounds give harvesters a hint of the asparagus’ whereabouts. Each individual stalk is partially dug free by hand before workers use special long-handled knives to cut them from the ground. Special care must be taken not to disturb other, unseen, stalks that are not yet ready to be picked.

The holes are then covered with the loose dirt and patted smooth with trowels in preparation for the next day’s harvest. Folklore has it that, at the height of the season, under perfect conditions, one can literally watch white asparagus grow.

The fields are used solely for white asparagus, which is harvested only from early April until the summer solstice in late June, after which, it is said, the fields must be allowed to rest for the next year’s production.

This backbreaking work, coupled with the relatively short season, makes white asparagus one of the most expensive vegetables on the market. It also explains why only the head chef or a trusted sous-chef is allowed to peel it. If it’s not peeled deeply enough, the asparagus can be stringy. If too much is peeled, you may be throwing away hundreds of dollars.

To peel white asparagus, start about one inch from the head and stroke downward to the end of the stalk, keeping the pressure constant. This is done gently all around the stalk, while taking care to support the spear so as not to break it. The shavings are then used for stock to make asparagus soup.

Steamed or blanched in water well-seasoned with salt, lemon juice, butter and a bit of sugar, the carefully peeled stalks of white asparagus reveal a burst of earthy, sweet and slightly bitter flavors, similar to what we have grown to love in vegetables such as radicchio, endive or arugula. Germans even have a word to describe this kind of flavor-edelbitter, which means a refined, good bitterness (it is also used to describe chocolate).

White asparagus’ texture is soft and creamy, with a slight stringiness and a silky weight. At its best, it reveals a profusion of buttery, earthy, nutty, juicy flavors that is best served plain or with such simple accompaniments as boiled new potatoes, smoked salmon, chopped boiled eggs, smoky Black Forest ham or morel mushrooms.

But even more than flavor, the arrival of white asparagus season symbolizes, for many Europeans, something of a small victory. It ushers out the dark, gray, cold winter season and sets the stage for a bountiful harvest of fruits and vegetables that extends clear into early winter, when the late-harvest Riesling grapes are picked. No other vegetable has that kind of an effect.

White Asparagus-Pistachio Creme Brulee

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 50 minutes

Look for double cream in the dairy section at gourmet and well-stocked supermarkets.

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1 pound white asparagus

Salt

1/2 cup peeled, unsalted pistachios

1 cup double cream

1 vanilla bean

6 tablespoons sugar, plus more for glazing

5 egg yolks

Trim about 1/2 inch from the ends of the asparagus. Lay the spears on a work surface and peel them with a sharp vegetable peeler, starting about 1 1/2 inches from the top and running evenly down the length of each spear. (Spears are brittle and can snap when peeled in midair.) Cook the asparagus in lightly salted water for about 20 minutes. Drain the asparagus and cool. Lightly extract water from the asparagus by patting it dry with paper towels. Cut it into pieces, then puree it with the pistachios in a food processor and pour the puree into a bowl. Whisk the yolks, then combine them with the puree; set aside.

Heat the oven to 250 degrees.

Bring the double cream, the seeds from the vanilla bean and the 6 tablespoons of sugar to a simmer in a saucepan. Gently pour the cream mixture over the puree. Strain and pour into 4 or 6 (1/2-cup ramekins.) Place the ramekins in a baking dish and fill it with enough water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the centers are set, 1 hour. Cool. Just before serving, sprinkle each ramekin with 1 to 2 teaspoons of sugar and broil until the sugar is melted, 1 minute.

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4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 226 calories; 68 mg sodium; 200 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 20 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 2.30 grams fiber.

Basic White Asparagus

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 25 minutes

A classic way of preparing white asparagus.

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4 quarts water

2 tablespoons salt

1/4 cup lemon juice

3 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup sugar

1 to 2 pounds white asparagus

Bring the water to a simmer in a large pot with the salt, lemon juice, butter and sugar.

Meanwhile, trim about 1/2 inch from the ends of the asparagus. Lay the spears on a work surface and peel them with a sharp vegetable peeler, starting about 1 1/2 inches from the top and running evenly down the length of each spear. (Spears are brittle and can snap when peeled in midair.) Gather the spears into 2 to 4 bundles and tie them loosely with kitchen string, then lower them into the simmering water.

Cook, increasing the heat to maintain a simmer, if necessary, until the asparagus is tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, anywhere between 8 and 30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears. Lift the bundles from the water with kitchen tongs and drain them on paper towels.

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2 to 4 servings. Each of 4 servings: 54 calories; 618 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 2.71 grams fiber.

White Asparagus Soup

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Peelings from 2 to 3 pounds white asparagus

6 cups water

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

1/2 cup minced onion

3 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup whipping cream

White pepper

4 white asparagus spears, cooked

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Bring the asparagus peels and water to a boil in a 4-quart saucepot. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook the peels about 20 minutes, then strain, reserving the broth.

Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat until melted. Stir in the onion and cook until tender, but not browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in the flour. Cook and stir until blended and smooth, about 1 minute.

Stir in 5 cups of the asparagus peel broth. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer 5 minutes. Stir in the cream and white pepper to taste. Simmer 1 minute.

To serve, cut the asparagus spears into 1-inch slices and put a few slices in the bottom of each bowl. Divide the soup among the bowls and serve.

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4 servings. Each serving: 216 calories; 139 mg sodium; 52 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 11 grams saturated fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 2.79 grams fiber.

Classic One Pounder With Black Forest Ham and Potatoes

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 45 minutes

Asparagus lovers, take note: This recipe is for one or two. So that’s a pound of white asparagus (or a half-pound) all for yourself. You can serve this with an herbed vinaigrette or homemade mayonnaise, if desired. If you can’t find Black Forest ham, you may use good quality prosciutto or Spanish serrano ham.

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3 to 4 small boiling potatoes

Salt

1 pound Basic White Asparagus

1/8 pound thinly sliced Black Forest ham

Place the potatoes in a small pot. Cover them with cold water, add a generous pinch of salt and bring them to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer the potatoes until tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the asparagus according to the Basic White Asparagus recipe, tying the asparagus into just 1 bundle. When the asparagus is cooked, use tongs to place the hot bundle--still tied--in the center of a serving plate.

Drain the potatoes, slice them into 1/4-inch slices and arrange them slightly overlapping each other alongside the asparagus. Arrange the ham, loosely folded, on the other side of the asparagus.

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1 to 2 servings. Each of 2 servings: 197 calories; 583 mg sodium; 13 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 34 grams carbohydrates; 14 grams protein; 5.32 grams fiber.

White Asparagus Ragout With Cherry Tomatoes and Chervil Beurre Blanc

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

1 cup dry white wine

1 shallot, thinly sliced

1/2 cup whipping cream

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Dash hot pepper sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

3 to 4 chervil leaves, divided

2 pounds Basic White Asparagus

16 to 20 small red cherry tomatoes

Boil the wine and shallot in a medium-heavy pan over medium-high heat until reduced by three-fourths, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add the cream and cook until the liquid is reduced again by half, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Reduce the heat to low. Cut the butter into pieces, then whisk it into the pan, a few pieces at a time, until smooth. Whisk in salt and pepper to taste along with the hot sauce and lemon juice. Cover and keep warm for up to 15 minutes.

Chop half of the chervil and set it aside.

Cut the asparagus into 1 1/2-inch lengths and add to the warm beurre blanc. Cook for 1 minute, stirring gently until the asparagus is well-coated. Add the tomatoes and chopped chervil and stir gently, then spoon into a warm serving dish. Garnish with the remaining chervil. Serve warm.

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4 servings. Each serving: 431 calories; 457 mg sodium; 114 mg cholesterol; 41 grams fat; 25 grams saturated fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 3.13 grams fiber.

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Rockenwagner is chef-owner of Rockenwagner restaurant in Santa Monica.

Towel from Crate & Barrel stores.