Wine of the Week

Deutz, founded in 1838, is one of the smaller Champagne houses, as grandes marques go. Now owned by Roederer, it’s still family-run. Director Andre Lallier is, in fact, the great-great-grandson of the founder.

At the holidays, you can never have too much Champagne, and Deutz more than fills the bill with its small line of excellent, moderately priced Champagnes. Its Brut Classic, which can be found around town at less than $25, is all lovely toast and yeast on the nose. Drink it in proper Champagne flutes, the better to show off its skeins of fine bubbles.

About $25. Widely available at wine shops and retailers.