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Grab the Bull by the Horns in Bocas

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Memories of Bocas del Toro, Panama, exploded in my mind after reading Christopher Reynolds’ article (“Last Chance for Eden,” Dec. 2). American expatriates in Costa Rica use Bocas as a three-day refuge to renew passports.

On my trek, my Munich roommate belted out German war songs on the bumpy unpaved road through Dole banana plantations; pimply-faced 15-year-olds in fatigues wielded M-16s at the border; we drove in a tiny Peugeot across a bridge that looked like the one in “Apocalypse Now.”

But once we were on the islands, flying fish skated across the waters as Hurricane Mitch pummeled Honduras, children in blue-and-white uniforms took dugout canoes to school in front of our $10-a-night cabin on stilts, and we found total isolation on a brass-colored beach two miles long. The islands were Eden.

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I wish Panama would close the border on the developers, if just to allow the poison dart frogs a few more weeks from extinction.

DAVID GORMAN

Pasadena

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