Yosemite, the Picture of Peace

The sign at the tunnel entrance said “Turn On Your Lights.” Not bad advice as we entered a mile-long tunnel carved into solid rock.

When we emerged from the shadows, the brightest sight wasn’t the sun above but the faces next to me as Yosemite Valley opened up before us. The granite facade of El Capitan rose on the left, majestic Bridalveil Falls tumbled on the right, and in the distance straight ahead, the snow-dusted crown of Half Dome beamed in the daylight.

Even a regular Yosemite visitor like me is struck anew by the view. For newcomers like my friend Gloria Cortez, the experience can border on the spiritual. As our car reached a spot called Tunnel View, Gloria said she felt a connection to the power of nature--”like I was in touch with my soul.”

That is the magic of Yosemite National Park, especially during winter, and even more so during the holiday season. High peaks are covered in the ermine shades of snow, and the winter chill makes the air sparkle. The icy walls surrounding the valley are etched like crystal, and frost paints its own pattern on fallen leaves and frozen riverbanks. The sky is a more vibrant blue; the pine-tree green seems sharper against winter’s muted hues.

It is a quiet, peaceful time of the year in a remarkable place.

“Everyone needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to body and soul alike,” naturalist John Muir wrote during one of his visits to Yosemite. That sentiment rings especially true in these uncertain times, when more of us seek to soothe frayed nerves and recharge sagging spirits, to reconnect with friends and family and perhaps find inspiration in the majestic setting that lies so close to home.

An estimated 3.5 million people flock to Yosemite each year, but only about 14% of those visitors come in winter. Why the number is so low, I don’t know, given that there’s usually enough snow for downhill and cross-country skiing, plus the proper conditions for ice skating and serene walks in a frozen-in-time landscape. As the number of people dips with the mercury, the park becomes a different place, full of tranquillity and slower in pace. Lodging is less expensive and in most cases easier to reserve, and the Winter Passport--good for a midweek skiing lift ticket, ice skating and a valley tour for $20 ($10 for children)--makes fun and games more affordable.

Since the early ‘80s, Dave Wyman, a travel photographer and tour organizer, has led a group of friends and strangers for a family-oriented holiday pilgrimage here. Last year Gloria, her son Andre, 9, and I joined the four-day celebration, which had grown to 66 people.

A few days before New Year’s, we drove north from Los Angeles to the park’s south entrance on California 41. Our first stop was Mariposa Grove, the largest group of giant sequoias in Yosemite and home to the 2,700-year-old Grizzly Giant, the world’s oldest living sequoia and its the fifth largest tree in terms of weight.

The sun seemed to cast more shadows in winter than in summer. Andre and Gloria climbed into caves created by the huge roots, playfully popping in and out among the towering trunks while their breath turned to steam in the nippy air.

We proceeded north on Wawona Road and through the mile-long tunnel. After pulling over to soak in the incredible view, we plunged down a series of steep turns into Yosemite Valley. At the valley floor, we saw Bridalveil Falls tumbling from 620 feet above. Even with winter’s reduced flow, the spectacle compelled us to pull over for a better look.

The late afternoon sun dwindled into dusk. Andre peered through the car window in hopes of spotting a deer, a coyote or maybe a bear before its winter slumber. December is usually a good time to see animals in the park, but he would have to wait for another day.

Our destination was Curry Village, where our group was staying in rustic cabins. When Curry Village was established in 1899, visitors slept in tents. For $2 a day or $12 a week, each person got a good bed and a clean napkin with every meal.

Today the village has 182 cabins and more than 400 canvas tents. We noted that winter prices have risen as high as $100 a night and some of the beds sag, but the napkins are still clean. (All Curry Village accommodations will be closed from Jan. 6 to March 22 for renovations, a park spokeswoman said.)

We checked in, carried our suitcases and backpacks inside and began creating a bit of order out of the typical travel chaos. Across the way, music from an outdoor ice-skating rink echoed off surrounding pines, and Half Dome loomed above. Because temperatures were dropping into the 30s, we turned on the cabin’s electric heater and soon the room was toasty.

Later, as we strolled over to the Curry Village Pavilion cafeteria for salad and pizza, we took a little detour to look at thousands of stars filling the heavens. “Sitting under these 3,000-foot walls, especially on a clear winter night, and seeing all the stars around El Capitan--there’s nothing else like that,” my friend Galen Rowell, an acclaimed photographer, recently told me. And indeed, on this fine evening, the Milky Way stretched like a bright welcome sign, and the hunter Orion’s belt and sword gleamed almost directly overhead, as if protecting this wonderland from the outside world.

Morning arrived sunny and cold. Our schedule called for a trip to Badger Pass, the only ski area with a chairlift in any national park, accessible by bus from Curry Village. Opened in 1935, Badger Pass is the oldest formal ski area in California and one with a well-deserved reputation for being family-friendly. Fully 85% of the runs are designed for beginning and intermediate skiers.

With so much inviting terrain, it was no surprise that some members of the group headed for the chairlifts. Most of us, though, were more interested in the area’s 90 miles of marked cross-country ski trails, especially the snowy road that stretches toward Glacier Point.

From the parking lot, we made a gentle climb and then glided along the snow-covered road to Summit Meadow. Although early-season precipitation was scarce down in Yosemite Valley last year, enough snow had fallen for downhill and cross-country skiing here above 7,000 feet. (Snow is abundant at Badger Pass this year.)

Neither Gloria nor Andre had skied before, so the sunshine and gentle terrain made the experience more fun than formidable. By the time we arrived at Summit Meadow, we were so hungry that the simple lunches we had stashed in our packs looked as good as gourmet. Most of the adults staked out spots on logs and beneath trees; the youngsters raced into the field, built snowmen and tossed snowballs. After lunch, we skied back down the road to Badger Pass for the return bus trip and a hot shower before dinner.

During our trip, we sampled several places to eat in Yosemite Valley. With a grand brunch at the Ahwahnee Hotel on the itinerary for New Year’s Day, we stuck to budget-minded fare other days.

Except for the Ahwahnee, food in Yosemite seldom has measured up to the scenery. But the park concessionaire recently improved the quality and variety. The dreadful old Yosemite Lodge cafeteria has been replaced with a $1.1-million food court that opened this summer offering pasta, pizza, sandwiches and salads.

The lodge also has the Mountain Room Restaurant, which serves up steak and seafood, along with a view of Yosemite Falls. The Victorian dining room at the Wawona also is popular, though the hotel, a National Historic Landmark, will close for renovations after the first of the year, from Jan. 2 to March 22.

After dinner one night, Wyman described the flood that swept through the valley in 1997, ripping up trees and buildings and reshaping the landscape. That year, his group had settled into their cabins before the storm arrived. All night long water poured off the valley walls. “It sounded like a jet engine,” he said. “We knew we couldn’t stay, and we just got out before they closed the roads.”

The next day, Gloria and Andre decided to forgo skiing with the rest of the group as a concession to stiff muscles, so we explored the valley on our own. The first stop was Yosemite Falls.

In spring and early summer, the falls roar down more than 2,400 feet to the rocks below. The lighter flow in winter, though less dramatic, made it possible to rock-scramble to a rainbow near the base of the lower fall.

We stopped at the visitor center and the Ansel Adams Gallery in Yosemite Village. The gallery not only displays the photographer’s images but also has prints, cards, calendars, books and other Yosemite souvenirs. The best thing we walked away with, though, was a deeper appreciation for the way Adams captured the soul of the park.

After a picnic lunch in the meadow across from El Capitan, we scanned the great granite face for climbers working their way up the wall. A couple of tiny figures stood out, their clothes a Santa Claus red.

At Gates of the Valley, where the Merced River forms an elbow bend toward the heart of the valley, our eyes swept over a scene framed by El Capitan, Cathedral Spires and the river--a favorite spot among photographers. Later in the afternoon, we paused at Sentinel Bridge and strolled along the river with Half Dome as a backdrop. Ducks swam along the banks, and a skittish coyote scampered into view, finally giving Andre the critter sighting he hoped for.

New Year’s Eve arrived with another burst of sunlight over the valley walls. Dave scheduled a leisurely tour through Stoneman Meadow and over to the Ahwahnee for a peek at the hotel, the crown jewel of national parks lodgings, set to celebrate its 75th birthday next year.

As we approached the far side of the meadow, there was movement. All eyes focused on the edge of the field where first one, then two, then four mule deer with magnificent antlers appeared. Accustomed to two-legged visitors, the bucks grazed casually as we approached, occasionally raising their heads. We passed by, almost close enough to touch. It was a classic Yosemite moment.

That night we had gathered in an old girls’ club cabin near the park administration building to celebrate with soda and snacks when Dave sprang a surprise: We were going for a walk. Minutes later, guided by flashlights, we were at the entrance to the old Yosemite graveyard, where early park residents, including Native Americans, were buried. Dave read about the history of the graves by flashlight. It felt more like Halloween than New Year’s Eve, but no one complained.

We rang in the New Year on East Coast time, toasting with soda and champagne at the stroke of 9 and slowly slipping away to warm beds and sound sleep. By New Year’s Day, only one event remained: brunch at the Ahwahnee.

The hotel opened July 14, 1927, and remains as distinctive as ever. The exterior of locally quarried granite, wood and textured concrete blends with the landscape; the interior exudes an understated grandeur dominated by Native American motifs--Miwok patterns painted on the walls, handmade baskets and the like.

The main buildings’ 103 rooms and the 24 delightfully snug cottages set among black oak and ponderosa pine are nice. But the public spaces are what demand attention. I’ve watched as people enter the hotel for the first time and--eyes pointed toward the handsome beamed ceiling high, high overhead--collide with other guests doing the same.

One of my favorite spots is the Great Lounge, where light streams through 5-by-6-foot windows overlooking a frosty lawn. Golden walls and sandstone fireplaces add an aura of wealth and warmth.

This time of year, the Ahwahnee glows with holiday cheer. A Christmas tree sparkles in the lobby, and the dining room seems even more inviting than usual with its wreaths hung with care.

Chandeliers twinkle beneath the 34-foot ceiling with sugar pine trestles, and floor-to-ceiling glass brings a taste of winter inside. Quarter-scale knights’ armor guards the entryway, keeping eager guests in line.

By groups of four, six and eight we filed in, feasting our eyes on the room, then on the food: steamed mussels and clams, prawns, smoked salmon and grilled rainbow trout. Slow-roasted leg of lamb, roasted pork, smoked country ham, grilled chicken salad. Eggs Benedict, omelets, waffles, pumpkin bread. Cream puffs, German chocolate cake, decadent tortes. I’m amazed the buffet tables didn’t collapse under the weight of it all.

Reservations for the brunch are not crucial; visitors usually can just show up and get seated relatively quickly. The holiday Bracebridge Dinner and the New Year’s Eve Dinner-Dance, however, require hopefuls to enter a reservations lottery held every February. The Bracebridge Dinner, a $275-per-person affair that re-creates the English Christmas food and theatrics described in Washington Irving’s 1820 “The Sketch Book,” has been a tradition at the Ahwahnee since 1928.

Our group had come to the end of its own tradition. I asked Andre what he liked best about the trip. He said the cross-country skiing, spying a family of raccoons one night, and scrambling over the rocks to Yosemite Falls.

Seeing the park in winter had left a lasting mark on Gloria too, she said. As we headed for home, she felt as if she were leaving part of herself behind--as if she could never find the same peace and happiness unless she returned to the park again some other year.

Dave, save a place for us.

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Guidebook: Walking Through Yosemite’s Winter Wonderland

Getting there: Yosemite is about 300 miles north of L.A. Take Interstate 5 north past Gorman, then California 99 north toward Fresno. From there, California 41 north leads to the park’s south entrance. Or, farther north on 99 near Merced, California 140 leads east to the Arch Rock entrance. Park admission is $20 per car.

Where to stay: Park lodgings are managed by Yosemite Concession Services Corp. (contact information below). All rates listed here are for one night, double occupancy, and are subject to change.

We stayed at Curry Village in Yosemite Valley. It has 19 motel rooms and 102 cabins with private bath, plus 80 cabins and 427 canvas tents with communal bathrooms. Winter rates are $49-$100. All village accommodations will be closed for renovations Jan. 6-March 22. Spring rates will be $54-$112.

Yosemite Lodge, also in Yosemite Valley, was built in 1915 as the headquarters for the U.S. Army Cavalry. Its 248 rooms, renovated in 1998, run $96-$118 through March 21, $112-$136 thereafter.

The Wawona Hotel has 104 guest rooms in eight Victorian buildings at the park’s south entrance. Fifty rooms have private bath; the rest use communal facilities. Winter rates are $91-$132. The hotel will be closed for renovations Jan. 2-March 22. Spring rates will be $101-$161.

The historic Ahwahnee is the premier lodging in Yosemite. The hotel accepts reservations--and often books up--a year in advance, even in winter. Visitors without reservations have the best luck finding a vacancy Sunday- Wednesday. Rate: $326 through March 14, $366 after.

Where to eat: Economy dining options include the cafeteria-style Curry Village Pavilion (open in summer only, Memorial Day-Labor Day), fast-food stands in Curry Village (open year-round) and the Yosemite Lodge’s new food court, which serves sandwiches, salads, pizza and other casual fare. Full meals at the food court run about $7-$15 per person.

A step up are the Mountain Room Restaurant at Yosemite Lodge and the Wawona Hotel dining room. Chicken, lamb, prime rib and other hearty entrees are about $16-$26. Seating is first-come, first-served.

The Ahwahnee Dining Room is the park’s most elegant option: chandeliers hanging from 34-foot ceilings, fine china on linen tablecloths, and a dinner dress code to match--sport coats or “dress sweaters” for men; skirts, dresses or nice pants for women. (Other meals are casual.) Entrees such as miso-marinated Atlantic salmon and filet mignon run about $14-$30. Reservations suggested; (209) 372-1489.

Each year, the Ahwahnee holds a ticket lottery for two holiday celebrations: the renowned Bracebridge Dinner and the New Year’s Eve Dinner-Dance. The Bracebridge is a three-hour feast full of Renaissance pageantry; it costs $275 per person. Seven seatings, each with 332 people, are scheduled for the week before Christmas; last year more than 15,000 people vied for a seat. The New Year’s Eve gala is a black-tie-optional party that costs $180 per person. Lottery entrants for either celebration can request an application Dec. 1-Jan. 15 each year; applications are due Feb. 15. Call (559) 252-4848 or go to www.yosemitepark.com and click on “Special Events & Offers.”

Where to ski: All-day lift tickets for downhill skiing at Badger Pass are $31 for adults, $16 for children younger than 12. Snowshoe or cross-country ski equipment rentals run about $10-$20 per day. Ask about specials, including Winter Passport (good for midweek lift ticket and ice skating) for $10-$20. Call (209) 372-8430.

For more information: For park information, Yosemite National Park Public Information Office, P.O. Box 577, Yosemite, CA 95389; (209) 372-0200.

For reservations at any accommodation above, Yosemite Reservations, 5410 E. Home Ave., Fresno, CA 93727; (559) 252-4848, www.yosemitepark.com. Open 8 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

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Dan Blackburn is a freelance writer and television correspondent based in Los Angeles.