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French Onion Soup

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Your spoon plunges through melted cheese, then toasted crouton, into a broth full of caramelized onions. Ahh.

* Pastis: This cozy bistro makes a warming, basic version using rich homemade chicken stock, white wine and lots of onions caramelized in olive oil, and then the flavors meld for a couple of hours. The crock is finished off with a toasted crouton covered with golden, broiled Gruyere cheese. (French onion soup, $6.) Pastis, 8114 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-8822.

* Frenchy’s Bistro: At this intimate spot, the onion soup is made with chicken stock, lots of caramelized onions and a flavoring of thyme, oregano and a little Sherry, topped with a slice of buttered baguette toast sprinkled with Parmesan, then covered with Comte cheese and mozzarella, which melt to a gooey, golden brown crust. (Frenchy’s onion soup, $5.) Frenchy’s Bistro, 4137 E. Anaheim St., Long Beach, (562) 494-8787.

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* Figaro Brasserie: “L’oignon soupe” is on special nearly everyday. Onions are sweated for hours, then veal stock and dry Sherry go in, along with pepper and a pinch of flour. The toasted crouton has melted Gruyere on top. (L’oignon soupe, $6.50.) Figaro Brasserie, 1802 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 662-1587.

* French Country Cafe: Here the foundation is onions caramelized in butter, deglazed with white wine and simmered with fresh thyme and rosemary. It’s served in a crock with a crouton of baguette bread and grilled Swiss cheese. (French onion soup, $4.95.), French Country Cafe, 231 N. Beverly Drive, (310) 273-4332.

* Chanteclair: Chef George “K” makes a mean onion soup. To onions sauteed in butter, he adds both beef and chicken stock. After an hour of simmering, he adds Cognac and Sherry, tops it with baguette toast covered with Gruyere and runs it under the broiler. (French onion soup, $5.95) Chanteclair, 18912 MacArthur Blvd., Irvine, (949) 752-8001.

* Cafe Stella: Chef-owner Gareth Cantner and chef Aldis Seaton nearly caramelize Maui and brown onions, then add fresh thyme, white wine and water to make a delicate vegetarian broth full of sweet onion flavor. They then float a crisp crouton layered with Gruyere on top. (French onion soup, $7.) Cafe Stella, 3932 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, (323) 666-0265.

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