1996 Bodegas Muga ‘Torre Muga,’ Rioja, Spain

This great red from a spectacular vintage is Rioja’s equivalent of a Super Tuscan. (Of course, the grape is Tempranillo, not Sangiovese.)Though it’s aged in new French oak, it hasn’t lost any of the terrific character of Tempranillo. The nose-plums, sandalwood and toasted oak-signals the wine’s quality. The texture is as soft as velour; it’s a gorgeous blanket of flavor. And the finish is calibrated to play out nuance after nuance.

Expensive, yes. But it would be hard to find a Bordeaux of this quality at this price. This is a stunning wine. It’s particularly hard to beat with lamb.

About $45. Available at fine wine retailers. If you can’t find this wine, have your local wine store contact the distributor, Associated Wines, at (707) 963-8055.