Ceviche
This refreshing Latin American appetizer is fish marinated in citrus juices until it stiffens as if cooked.
* Marix Tex Mex Cafe: The fish of the day--sea bass, red snapper, maybe albacore--is what you’ll find in the ceviche. It’s mixed with lemon and lime juices, coarsely chopped tomatoes, red onions, avocados and plenty of cilantro. It comes in a 10-ounce rustic glass. (Ceviche cocktail, $5.75.) Marix Tex Mex Cafe, 118 Entrada Drive, Santa Monica, (310) 459-8596; 1108 N. Flores St., West Hollywood, (323) 656-8800.
* Xiomara: Chef-owner Ardolina Xiomara makes an Ecuadorean version with sea scallops, rock shrimp, red onion, cilantro, orange, lemon and lime juices and just enough chopped fresh jalapeno to give it a bite. It comes in a lovely martini glass garnished with avocado and two very long, crisp plantain chips. (Ecuadorean ceviche, $10.50.) Xiomara, 69 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, (626) 796-2520.
* Mario’s Peruvian: Peru claims to be the home of ceviche. Mario’s ceviche mixto uses shrimp, Pacific squid, octopus and red snapper marinated in lemon juice, minced celery and jalapeno, with a Peruvian yellow chile called aji amarilla. This is served with lettuce and garnished with red onions and cilantro. (Ceviche mixto, $9.25.) Mario’s Peruvian, 8786 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 466-4181.
* Cava: This substantial ceviche is swordfish, red snapper and shrimp marinated in orange, lime, lemon and papaya juices, along with diced serrano chiles, chopped red onions and cilantro. It’s served in a coconut shell decorated with slices of cucumber and lemon. (Ceviche del mar, $7.95.) Cava, Beverly Plaza Hotel, 8384 W. 3rd St., L.A., (323) 658-8898.
* Casa Olamendi’s: Chef-owner Rosa Olamendi uses her grandmother’s simple Puebla recipe: chunks of halibut marinated for at least four hours in lime and lemon juice with jalapenos and cilantro, served on lettuce and red cabbage. (Ceviche de pescado, $6.95.) Casa Olamendi’s, 1160 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, (949) 497-4148.
* Border Grill: Rock shrimp ceviche (available every day) is made with a serrano chile marinade and comes in a martini glass garnished with corn chip. The daily special ceviche could be red snapper or even smoked mussels in a citrus and chile marinade. (Ceviche, $8.) Border Grill, 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-1655.