Wine of the Week

Here’s a beautifully understated Chardonnay, the complete antithesis of those big, over-oaked California Chardonnays that dominate the shelves. This one lets the fruit shine through bright and clear.

A hint of citrus and a refreshing snap of acidity make this wine particularly suitable for warm weather. Serve it with grilled fish, shrimp and lobster.

Compared with most California Chardonnays, Francine’s Selection is a bargain. Buy it by the case and drink it through the summer.

About $12. Available at the Wine House in West L.A., (310) 479-3731; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; Wine Club in Santa Ana, (714) 835-6485; and Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463.