When the Vegetables Are Enough

Rose Miller, my maternal grandmother, was at the helm cooking Thanksgiving dinner for as many years as I can remember. As the eldest granddaughter, I watched the table expand as new cousins came along. When there were no more leaves to add to the dining room table, a long folding table was set up, and then a card table, until all 23 of us squeezed around what looked like one big long table, elegantly covered with starched white linen tablecloths.

With her generous spirit she accommodated us all. Yet, during all those years, she never even considered asking the question--”Are any of you vegetarians?” After all, this was before “Diet for a Small Planet” raised food preferences and dietary restrictions as an “issue.” My grandmother happily cooked, we heartily filled our plates, and everyone ate and went back for seconds--it was that simple.

Nowadays, I wouldn’t think of inviting guests without asking about their food preferences. Perhaps I could attribute this to the welcoming nature I inherited from my grandmother, but I believe the trend toward meatless meals has most of us thinking about the vegetarians, vegans and other “-tarians” in our midst.

According to the National Turkey Federation, 45 million turkeys unwittingly give their lives so that a plump, gloriously roasted bird can grace our Thanksgiving tables. Well, that takes care of the turkey eaters, but what do we serve to a mixed crowd of both turkey eaters and vegetarians?

I have a few ideas. When quite a few of my guests are vegetarians, then I would be inclined to make a “full-blown” meatless entree for them, something such as roasted acorn squash halves stuffed with wild rice, diced vegetables and cubes of hickory-smoked tofu; or a lasagna with layers of sauteed sugar pumpkin, herbs and ricotta. But, when there are just a couple of non-meat eaters at the table, I opt for making plenty of side dishes suitable for all.

Bread stuffing, which everyone loves, has some simple substitutions and adaptations for your vegetarian guests. First, don’t stuff the turkey; rather, cook the stuffing in a separate baking dish. This is actually my preferred method, as I am a big fan of the crisp and beautifully browned bread cubes that form a crusty top when the stuffing is baked uncovered. Sauteed cremini or portabello mushrooms are a perfect alternative when a stuffing recipe has sausage or chopped giblets in it. Replace the chicken stock called for in the recipe with vegetable stock. Choices will be easier if you are cooking for an ovo-lacto vegetarian, because eggs that help bind the stuffing can be used. Without eggs, expect the stuffing to be loose and crumbly, a nonetheless delicious variation.

A terrific way to get around the egg/binding issue is to make a wild rice stuffing. This native American grain has a nutty, almost smoky, flavor. I add lots of chopped carrot, celery and onion to the rice, plus toasted pine nuts and dried apricots that have been soaked until plump. The flavor of the wild rice complements roasted birds so well, and the brown grains intermixed with the orange of the carrots and apricots make such a pretty addition to the plate.

Consider making substantial vegetable side dishes and serving several of them. Often green vegetables get short shrift on the Thanksgiving buffet, while starchy dishes dominate. Believe me, I am a huge fan of piping-hot mashed potatoes and baked glazed yams. Include those, but check out some of the other vegetables in the produce aisle. Look for brimming bins of glorious fall produce--Brussels sprouts, winter squash, fennel and zucchini.

Leave the old-style green bean bake to the super traditionalists and try some updated vegetable dishes this year. Succotash dates back to the Narragansett Indians. They called it misickquatash, combining corn and beans cooked in bear fat. Go ahead and skip the bear fat, it won’t be a big hit with the vegetarians, and, besides, it’s not readily available at your local supermarket. My version uses fresh corn, zucchini, onion, bell peppers, lima beans and chanterelle mushrooms. Butter is my choice for the saute here; olive oil would be a perfectly fine substitute to accommodate the strict vegetarians.

One last thought. For those who think vegetables require lots of last-minute preparation--not all do. The gratin of fennel and tomato can be assembled hours ahead. The wild rice stuffing can be made one, or even two, days ahead. Get the chopping done early for the succotash and you have a quick saute that any capable guest can handle. Even the spaghetti squash can be prepared up to one day in advance.

This Thanksgiving my table will be set for 15. As is tradition, my family and friends expect me to plan a menu and hand out cooking assignments with recipes included. I’m making the turkey and stuffing. My niece, a vegan, is making cranberry chutney and some maple-glazed baked apples as one of the desserts. The son of my closest friend is a strict vegetarian, and called to say he would make the Gratin of Fennel and Tomato but asked to substitute grated soy cheese for the Parmesan. My other niece won’t eat turkey or anything with mushrooms or nuts in it--she’s 15, a complete contrarian!

Yet, as we gather around the table to enjoy and cherish each other’s company, the true spirit of the holiday will be with us--we’ll feel blessed for those gathered with us, and we’ll remember those we have lost. We’ll be thankful for the bounty of the season; our plates will be full; and the diversity of foods will have all going back for seconds.

Spaghetti Squash “Pasta” With a Zucchini, Garlic and Tomato Sauce

Active Work Time: 30 minutes

* Total Preparation Time: 1 1/4 hours

* Vegetarian

S paghetti squash is a watermelon-shaped winter squash with a creamy yellow shell. When cooked, the nutty-flavored, golden yellow flesh separates into spaghetti-like strands. With the right seasonings and a robust sauce, this novelty squash makes an attractive and delicious vegetarian entree.

1 spaghetti squash (about 3 pounds)

1/4 cup olive oil

1 onion, cut in 1/2-inch dice

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, drained

2 small zucchini, trimmed and cut in 1/4-inch dice

1/3 cup minced parsley

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup (2 ounces) grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Pierce the skin of the squash in several places with a sharp knife or carving fork. Place the squash on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until tender when pierced with a fork, about 45 to 60 minutes. While the squash is baking make the sauce.

Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Swirl to coat the pan and cook the onion and garlic, stirring frequently, until softened and just beginning to brown, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes, adjust the heat so the sauce simmers slowly, and cook for 20 minutes. Add the zucchini and simmer 5 minutes longer. Add the parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm over very low heat.

When the squash is tender, halve lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a spoon. Use a fork to scrape the flesh from the skin, and place the squash strands in a serving bowl. Toss with the butter, and season with salt and pepper. When ready to serve, spoon the tomato sauce over the top and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. (The squash can be prepared up to a day in advance. Refrigerate covered, and reheat in a 250-degree oven or in a microwave until hot. The sauce, without the addition of zucchini and parsley, can be made a day in advance. Bring to a simmer; then add the zucchini, parsley, salt and pepper as directed above.)

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 261 calories; 555 mg sodium; 18 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 25 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 4.89 grams fiber.

Gratin of Fennel and Tomato

Active Work Time: 45 minutes

* Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

* Vegetarian

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard guests say, “Fennel? I’ve never tasted fennel. This is delicious.” Whether sauteed, braised or sliced raw for salads, fennel is always a surprise and a delight to serve. Sometimes labeled sweet anise, fennel has a texture similar to celery and a lovely, mild licorice flavor, which is a perfect foil for a rich meal.

3/4 cup dried bread crumbs

5 tablespoons olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 large onion, halved and cut in 1/4-inch slices

6 fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks, halved, cored and cut in 1/4-inch slices

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

3/4 cup (3 ounces) grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Toast the bread crumbs in an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Heat the oil in a very large (16-inch) skillet over medium heat, and swirl to coat the pan. Cook the garlic and onion until soft, but not brown, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the fennel and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the fennel has softened and is beginning to brown, about 20 to 25 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes longer. Transfer to a shallow 3-quart oven-to-table casserole or gratin dish.

Heat the oven to 425 degrees.

Combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan and lemon zest in a bowl and sprinkle evenly over the fennel mixture. (The gratin can be made up to this point 6 to 8 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate, then bring to room temperature before baking.)

Bake the gratin until heated through and the topping is crisp, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.

10 servings. Each serving: 168 calories; 649 mg sodium; 7 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 2.07 grams fiber.

Wild Rice Stuffing with Pine Nuts, Dried Apricots and Fresh Herbs

Active Work Time: 35 minutes

* Total Preparation Time: 1 1/2 hours

* Vegetarian

Long considered the “caviar of grains,” wild rice is native to North America, and it isn’t really a rice at all. The grains are long, slender and black with a unique nutty, almost smoky, flavor. They come from a reed-like aquatic plant that not long ago was only found in the wild, but is now naturally cultivated. I like to serve this separately, but it is equally delicious stuffed in the turkey.

2 cups wild rice

2 cups vegetable stock

1/2 teaspoon salt, divided

1/2 cup pine nuts

3/4 cup dried apricots, quartered

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

2 large ribs celery, finely chopped

2 large carrots, finely chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon minced fresh sage

1/2 cup minced parsley

Freshly ground pepper

Combine the rice, vegetable stock and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt in a saucepan and add 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, partially cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, about 40 minutes. (Not all of the liquid will be absorbed.)

Meanwhile, place a small, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When it is hot, but not smoking, add the pine nuts. Toast them until nicely browned, stirring constantly, about 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer them to a plate and set aside to cool.

Place the dried apricots in a small bowl, add hot water to cover and allow to plump for 20 minutes. Drain and reserve.

Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Swirl to coat the pan and cook the celery, carrots and onion until soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the thyme, sage and parsley and cook 1 more minute. Remove from the heat.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

When the rice is tender, add the cooked vegetable mixture to the rice. Add the reserved pine nuts and apricots, and stir to combine. Add the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Use the remaining 1 tablespoon of the butter to grease a 2 1/2-quart oven-to-table casserole. Spoon in the rice stuffing and cover. Bake until heated through, 20 minutes. (The stuffing can be made up to 1 day in advance. Refrigerate, covered and bring to room temperature 1 hour before baking. Increase the baking time to 40 minutes to ensure it’s heated through.)

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 200 calories; 472 mg sodium; 16 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 25 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 2.46 grams fiber.

*

Morgan is the author of “The Thanksgiving Table: Recipes and Ideas to Create Your Own Holiday Tradition,” (Chronicle Books, $18.95).