Commentary

The Alto Adige, near the Austrian border, is Italy’s northernmost winegrowing region. The cool climate makes for white wines that are aromatic and retain a crisp acidity.

This Pinot Grigio, from respected winemaker Franz Haas, is fruity and lively, with a lovely melon scent--quite a bargain for a white wine less than $10.

And, needless to say, just in time for the holiday table.

About $8. Available at Beverage Warehouse, (310) 306-2822, and L.A. Wine Co., (310) 306-9463, in Los Angeles; the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; Wine Country in Long Beach, (562) 597-8303; and Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463.