Old Desserts Are New Again

Many of the desserts made by the pastry chefs profiled in “Sweet Success” (by David Lansing, July 21) are analogous to the “new” rock bands flooding MTV. Grand marnier souffles and strawberry tarts have been around since the ‘60s. The only real innovator in the article seems to be Kimberly Boyce, and even her ingredients and techniques were staples at Chez Panisse ages ago or are based on ancient French products.

Yeah, I know--everything old is new again, but Lansing shouldn’t have made this stuff sound like the second coming. Los Angeles may not be the nation’s foremost restaurant city, but our past includes some great pastry chefs who made great desserts. Some of us remember them.

Sandy Teich

Via the Internet