Five Feet Beats a Hasty Retreat From L.A.

So Long, Five Feet: It was only eight months ago that the well-known Laguna Beach restaurant Five Feet opened an L.A. branch in the glamorous old Le Colonial location, but it closed its doors Aug. 16. “I needed to regroup,” said owner Michael King. “I’m retreating back to Orange County.” (Without missing a beat, he’s opening another Five Feet in Anaheim Oct. 8.) So why did he shut the doors in L.A.? King gave the difficult economy and the long drive from Laguna he had to make four to five times a week as reasons. “We were planning on losing money the first year,” he said. “I just didn’t expect that I would have to expend so much energy.” Apparently, most of the kitchen staff has found new jobs, though the remaining waiters will have to fend for themselves.

Sweetfish at Water Grill: Chef Michael Cimarusti now has ayu, a Japanese summer delicacy known in English as sweetfish. “They’re so beautiful,” he says, “and the white flesh has a fabulous, perfect flavor.” These tiny river fish (only about 5 inches long) are imported in small cedar boxes directly from ayu farms in Japan. In the past, though, sweetfish were hunted at night using torches and trained cormorants; the birds would dive and catch the fish, but they’d be pulled in by a tether around their necks so the fish could be retrieved from their mouths, and then they’d be released to fetch more. Cimarusti serves ayu sauteed in lemon and brown butter with Montana morels and a poached egg on top.

In another bit of Water Grill news, Cimarusti has announced that he has stopped buying Russian and Iranian caviar and switched to American and French. “In light of all the fishing practices and the fact that the quality is just as good or better, it’s time,” Cimarusti says. He’s now serving Transmountainous brand caviar from Northern California and Caviare d’Aquitaine from France. “Both are delicious,” he says. “They’re best compared to osetra. They’ve got a lightly salty, nutty, rich, fatty taste, and the berries have a good texture.” They’re slightly cheaper than Iranian and Russian caviars, though when you’re talking about caviar, “cheaper” is a relative term.

Chadwick Has Company: Chef-owner Ben Ford has enlisted an eclectic group of guest chefs to cook at Chadwick the second Monday of each of the next three months. The dinners will benefit the Multiple Sclerosis Society. Each chef will cook his own four-or five-course menu, with which specially chosen wines will be served. The list begins with Mark Sullivan, the executive chef at the Village Pub in Woodside, Calif. Food & Wine just named Sullivan one of America’s best new chefs. Roxanne Klein, from Roxanne’s in Marin, will exhibit her organic, raw cuisine. Last is Gary Danko of Gary Danko’s in San Francisco. In 2000, Danko won the James Beard Foundation’s best new restaurant citation, and he was nominated in 2002 for outstanding chef of the year. Ford plans on resuming the series in spring. “It’s exciting to bring new chefs in,” he says. “You get so caught up in your own world ... it’s wonderful to get another perspective.” For more information, call (310) 205-9424.

Small Bites: At Melisse, Josiah Citron has created a special tomato menu, available until the end of September. Among the seven intriguing courses are Maine lobster ceviche with lobster parfait, tomato gelee and Green Zebra gazpacho, and Hudson Valley foie gras poached in tomato consomme with macerated tomatoes and black pepper honey gastrique. And for dessert, a tomato tarte tatin with fennel seed ice cream and basil syrup. For reservations, call (310) 395-0881.