ORANGE COUNTY DINING

In these capsules of recent reviews, dollar signs indicate the average price of a meal for one, without beverages.

$: less than $10

$$: up to $20

$$$: up to $30

$$$$: more than $30.

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CAFFE PIEMONTE: A family-owned place that serves excellent northern Italian food with a personal touch. Try the calamari saltati alla marinara, tagliolini alla Bolognese, pheasant ravioli and osso buco. Caffe Piemonte, 498 E. 1st St., Tustin. (714) 544-8072. Lunch Tuesdays-Fridays, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Tuesdays-Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. $$

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CAFE TU TU TANGO: This cavernous, high-octane space is filled with art created on the premises by working artists. The eclectic, all-appetizer menu includes Cajun chicken egg rolls, Dijon chicken skewers and tuna sashimi. Live entertainment also surfaces (“spontaneously,” to quote management). Cafe Tu Tu Tango, the Block at Orange. (714) 769-2222. Sundays-Wednesdays, 11 a.m.-midnight; Thursdays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. $

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CAFE ZOOLU: Cafe Zoolu is Laguna Beach all the way, from the funky quasi-Polynesian interiors to owner-chef Michael Leech’s cooking. Try the swordfish. This place is casual and hip without being trendy. Cafe Zoolu, 860 Glenneyre St., Laguna Beach. (949) 494-6825. Open for dinner Tuesdays-Sundays, 5 p.m. $$$

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CANYON LODGE: Canyon Lodge overlooks a rustic golf course landscaped with chaparral, and the restaurant serves a menu of comfort foods nearly as American in spirit. They serve a mean cream of tomato soup and sumptuous desserts. Best dishes: flatiron steak, smoked prime rib and an amazing Mandarin chicken salad. Canyon Lodge, 31106 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 499-2663. Lunch Tuesdays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Sundays-Thursdays, 5-9 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 5-10 p.m.; Sunday brunch, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. $$

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CAPRICCIO: It doesn’t hold back on big flavors like garlic and capers. The massive pasta dishes are smothered with aromatic sauces and, with some dishes, savory shrimp, mussels and clams. A fine selection of daily seafood specials. Capriccio Italiano Ristorante. 25380 Marguerite Parkway, Mission Viejo. (949) 855-6866. Lunch Mondays-Fridays, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner daily, starting at 4:30. $$

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CEDAR CREEK INN: The Cedar Creek Inn in Brea may be less homey than the others, but it’s an appropriate setting for a serious, fine-dining approach to American food. There are classics like German pot roast and prime rib, mostly successful innovations like chicken breast stuffed with pecans and Brie--and, of course, devastating chocolate desserts. Cedar Creek Inn, 20 Pointe Drive, Brea. (714) 255-5600. Lunch and dinner daily, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Also in Laguna Beach, San Juan Capistrano. $$$

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CHIMAYO AT THE BEACH: Chimayo at the Beach has a hot concept, a killer location opposite Huntington Beach Pier and stunning design. The menu is half Southwestern (star restaurateur David Wilhelm’s forte), half seafood. Don’t miss the rare ahi rolls with avocado or the slushy mango margarita. Chimayo at the Beach, 315 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach. (714) 374-7273. Sundays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. $$$

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CHINA PALACE: China Palace has kept pace with changing tastes in its 20-year existence, while dozens, even hundreds of nearby restaurants have come and gone. This gaudy, tropical-themed place has a sushi bar and a Chinese kitchen that turns out dishes such as veal scaloppine with basil, fried soft-shell crab, Pekin duck and terrific fried calamari. China Palace, 2800 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach. (949) 631-8031. Lunch Mondays-Fridays, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Sundays-Thursdays, 5-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 5-11 p.m. $$

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CHIN CHIN: A longtime Los Angeles staple, this Orange County outpost specializes in Chinese snacks and dumplings, as well as noodles, salads, barbecued meats and stir-fried dishes. The best items include barbecued pork, Sichuan dumplings and stir-fried eggplant. If you want real dim sum, though, you still have to go to Monterey Park. Chin Chin, 27441 Crown Valley Parkway, Mission Viejo. (949) 367-9595. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. $$

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CUBAN PETE’S: You can call this an exotic family restaurant, one of the few within a stone’s throw of Disneyland. The menu, not surprisingly, tends toward Cuban, but there are also wonderful dishes of Puerto Rico, a combination of many influences. Don’t miss the ham croquettes, the mashed plantain dip mofongo, the roast leg of pork and the terrific guava cheesecake. The atmosphere is lively, the staff especially cheerful. Cuban Pete’s, 1050 W. Ball Road, Anaheim. (714) 490-2020. Dinner only Tuesdays-Wednesdays, 5-10 p.m.; Thursdays-Saturdays, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Sundays, 3-10 p.m. $$$

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DARYA: For Persian cuisine in an elegant, fine-dining environment, South Coast Plaza Village has Darya. For entrees, try the seafood platter (especially the shrimp), the boneless chicken kebab, and the naderi kebab. Darya, South Coast Plaza Village, 1611 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana, (714) 557-6600. Open daily for lunch, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Sundays-Thursdays, 3-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 3-11 p.m. $$

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DIZZ’S AS IS: Dizz’s As Is has been around since the ‘70s--decades longer, if you count the two previous restaurants, Ford’s Cafe and Polly’s Pizza, that have occupied this location. Locals still line up to eat retro specialties like cheese-stuffed veal chop, steak Diane and swordfish Madagascar (menu changes daily), because seating is on a first-come, first-served basis. The Art Deco dining rooms are a hoot. Dizz’s As Is, 2794 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 494-5250. Dinner only Tuesdays-Thursdays, 5:30 (seating for dinner at 6)-9:30 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 5:30 (seating for dinner at 6)-10 p.m.; Sundays, 5 (seating for dinner at 5:30)-9:30 p.m. $$$

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EL CHOLO CANTINA: In its pleasant hacienda setting, El Cholo Cantina features a CliffsNotes version of the El Cholo chain’s tried-and-true menu: cheese-heavy combo plates, nostalgia dishes such as the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg--and, of course, those famous sweet, green-corn tamales (May through October only). El Cholo Cantina, 5465 Alton Parkway, Irvine. (949) 451-0044. Lunch and dinner Sundays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $

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EL FAROLITO: For 26 years, El Farolito has managed to please two kinds of Mexican food customers: those who want forceful dishes like birria and menudo and those who are looking for big margaritas and cheese-rich enchiladas and nachos. It’s a plain, friendly little place where even rice and beans are tasty. Check out the excellent steak Milanesa. El Farolito, 201 S. Bradford Ave., Placentia. (714) 993-7880. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, 7 a.m.-9 p.m. $

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FIVE CROWNS: A theme restaurant that has been doing the Olde English inn thing so long it’s acquired a paradoxical authenticity. The food’s more than acceptable too. Salads and appetizers are always good, and you can’t go wrong ordering the roast duck or the prime rib. Five Crowns, 3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 760-0331. Dinner Mondays-Thursdays, 5-9:30 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 5-10 p.m.; Sundays, 4-9 p.m. Brunch Sundays, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. $$$

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FLORENCE ITALIAN CUISINE: Elegant but casual, Florence Italian Cuisine offers an array of Italian favorites with an emphasis on seafood. Try the lobster-filled ravioli de l’aragosta, the filet mignon, the lasagna and the linguine vongole. For dessert, the tiramisu and the spumoni. Florence Italian Cuisine, 14210 Culver Drive (Heritage Plaza), Irvine. (949) 857-8265. Lunch and dinner Mondays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Fridays, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; dinner only Saturdays, 4-10 p.m.; brunch and dinner Sundays, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. $$

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GRAND CAFE WOLFGANG PUCK: This is a dizzyingly eclectic spinoff of Puck’s successful cafe concept, including an express area, a mini-mart and a greatly expanded menu. Many starters, such as sushi, pad Thai and barbecued ribs, are Asian-inspired, to complement a menu of wood-fired pizzas, upscale pastas, rotisserie meats and creative main courses. Desserts, as one might imagine, are solidly appealing and seriously indulgent. Grand Cafe Wolfgang Puck, the Block at Orange. (714) 634-9653. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. All major credit cards. $$$

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GULFSTREAM: Formerly Cowboy Newport Beach, this seafood spot has a hip, comforting American menu, plus a lively bar filled with the young and the restless of Newport Beach. The best dishes on the menu are wonderful fried jumbo shrimp, pan-roasted, cedar-plank salmon and the terrific Caesar. The place also has a nice wine list and, even better, no corkage fee. Gulfstream, 850 Avocado Ave., Newport Beach. (949) 718-0187. Sundays, 4-9 p.m.; Mondays-Wednesdays, 5:30-10 p.m.; Thursdays-Saturdays, 5:30-11 p.m. $$$

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IBIZA: After a tip of the hat to Spain, the jumping scene known as Ibiza mostly roves in the realm of Asian fusion cuisine. In fact, after the Flavors of Spain platter, go for Asian dishes such as seared ahi rolled in cracked pepper. And then order a cocktail and listen to the loud techno music. Ibiza, 209 Main St., Huntington Beach. (714) 536-7887. Lunch and dinner daily, 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m. $$$

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I LOVE SUSHI: I Love Sushi may sound like a new situation comedy, but it’s really one of Orange County’s best sushi restaurants, and at shockingly low prices. Chef Tiger Nogi, a true visual artist, has a deft hand with fish; his yellowtail and halibut sashimi are as delicate as you’ll ever taste. Come for lunch, when you’ll easily get a seat at the sushi bar and when the restaurant also serves a variety of hearty rice bowls. I Love Sushi, 2340 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa. (714) 540-6195. Lunch daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Sundays-Thursdays, 5-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 5-11 p.m. $$

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INDIA COOK HOUSE: One of our more cheerful Indian restaurants, though it holds no real surprises. The best dishes here are the meats and bread cooked in the tandoor, or a cylindrical clay oven. But there are also good chutneys, vindaloos, a few nice vegetable dishes and fine homemade desserts. Don’t miss gulab jamun, gold-colored cheese balls served warm in syrup. India Cook House, 14130 Culver Drive, Irvine. (949) 857-4858. Daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m. $$

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JAVIER’S CANTINA: This restaurant bridges the gap between taqueria authenticity and the happy-hour chips-and-salsa scene. Familiar Mexican specialties are here, but it’s the seafood specials like brocheta del mar and the sweet, powerfully corn-flavored green-corn tamale that make dealing with Laguna Beach parking worth it. Javier’s Cantina & Grill, 480 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 494-1239. Lunch and dinner Mondays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sundays, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. $$

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LEFT AT ALBUQUERQUE: With its blues soundtrack, Southwestern decor and eclectic cooking style, this eatery is a bit of an odd duck. The menu features a variety of mesquite-grilled meats and fish, along with a huge list of premium tequilas. Try the griddled corn cake appetizer, the Asian-tasting grilled Dixon pork. Left at Albuquerque, 3309 Michelson Drive, Irvine. (949) 757-7600. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$

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LUCIANA’S: Luciana’s has been around since the early ‘80s, but this rustic European restaurant is now managed by a new generation. Chef Brett Young serves a combination of old Italian recipes and more modern spinoffs. Especially good are his fagiolini verdi, fried green beans, tomato bread soup (zuppa campagnola) and delicious double-thick grilled pork chop glazed with balsamic vinegar. Luciana’s, 24312 Del Prado, Dana Point. (949) 661-6500. Dinner only Sundays-Thursdays, 5-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 5-11 p.m. $$$

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McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S: There are 40 or more kinds of fresh seafood on this menu, served in nearly 90 treatments. The inventive appetizer menu is highlighted by excellent crab-and-shrimp cakes, and the oyster selection is still one of the best around. The adjacent Pilsner Room brew pub serves an impressive list of microbrews. McCormick & Schmick’s, 2000 Main St., Irvine. (949) 756-0505. Mondays-Fridays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Saturdays, 5-11 p.m.; Sundays, 5-10 p.m. $$

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MOSUN: Hip, trendy Mosun, a place of black vinyl booths and dancing Thursday through Saturday, is basically a Pacific Rim restaurant. The food is of mixed quality--stick to the tuna tataki, filet mignon won tons, New York steak basted with mirin and the desserts. Mosun, 680 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 497-5646. Dinner Mondays-Wednesdays, 5-11 p.m.; Thursdays-Fridays, 5 p.m.-1 a.m.; Saturdays, 5 p.m.-midnight; Sundays, 5-10 p.m. $$

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MITSUYOSHI: There’s a sushi bar here, but the appetizers are better, especially the baked pike and the potato porridge (yamakake) with chunks of tuna sashimi. Thin-cut pork cutlets (shoga-yaki) come in a tangy sauce, and there’s a massive sukiyaki and a festive nabemono soup filled with meats, vegetables and noodles. Mitsuyoshi, 12033 Beach Blvd., Stanton. (714) 898-2156. Lunch Tuesdays-Fridays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Tuesdays-Saturdays, 5-10 p.m.; dinner Sundays, 5-9 p.m. $$

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MULBERRY STREET RISTORANTE: A cozy, welcoming setting for robust, old-school Italian food. It’s notable for dishes that achieve simple harmony through a deft balance of flavors. For appetizers, try the fried mozzarella and the steamed mussels. Exceptional entrees include the steak Mulberry and the fettuccine Caruso. Mulberry Street Ristorante, 114 W. Wilshire Ave., Fullerton. (714) 525-1056. Lunch and dinner Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; dinner only Fridays-Saturdays, 5-11 p.m.; Sundays, 5-10 p.m. $$

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NICO’S: Sonny Bono’s daughter owns an Italian restaurant (Christy’s) in Long Beach and also runs Nico’s, a contemporary American bistro on Naples Island. Her father, once a restaurant owner himself, trained her well. Nico’s is chic and modern with winning decor and fine food. Try the Nico salad and the best bread pudding around. Nico’s, 5760 E. 2nd St., Long Beach. (562) 434-4479. Dinner only, Sundays-Thursdays, 5-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 5-11 p.m. $$$

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OAK OVEN BARBECUE: The attraction at Lou’s Oak Oven Barbecue is Santa Maria-style barbecued tri-tip. But you can also get chicken, pork loin and Portuguese sausage. The food comes on metal camping plates, and drinks, including wine, are served in Mason jars, but it’s 200 miles closer than Santa Maria. Lou’s Oak Oven Barbecue, 21501 Brookhurst St., Huntington Beach. (714) 965-5200. Lunch and dinner Tuesdays-Sundays, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. $

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ON THE BORDER and PAT AND OSCAR’S: Across the parking lot from each other at the Market Place, On the Border and Pat and Oscar’s represent chains new to our area. One is a Cal-Mex joint with great fajitas, lots of deep-fried appetizers and not much soul. The other is a family-run, kid-oriented operation with forgettable pizzas, good salads and what might be the best baked chicken on the planet. On the Border, 13772 Jamboree Road, Irvine. (714) 508-1060. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$. Pat and Oscar’s, 13786 Jamboree Road, Irvine. (714) 505-6070. Sundays-Thursdays, 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $$

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OPAH: Opah is the latest restaurant from architect Mark Singer and his Peruvian-born wife, Miriam, and has made an immediate impact on the South County dining scene. The cuisine is eclectic and the decor stylish, factors that draw a young, well-dressed crowd. Crab cakes and a delicious oyster po’boy are among the best dishes, but several main courses are lackluster. Opah, 26851 Aliso Creek Road, Suite C, Aliso Viejo. (949) 360-8822. Sundays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. $$$

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OSTERIA DABBASSO: Osteria Dabbasso, in the old Kachina space, is an art-filled Laguna basement serving some of the biggest Italian dishes in the county. Come for the salads, imaginative pastas and good meat courses. Osteria Dabbasso, 222 Forest Ave., Laguna Beach. (949) 494-0495. Sundays-Thursdays, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. $$

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OYSTERS: “Asian-influenced California cuisine”--well, you can’t blame Oysters for wanting to distance itself from all the bad fusion cuisine around. But this spot, with its Chicago speak-easy ambience, could give fusion a good name, with dishes like artichoke with sambal-aioli. Good oysters too, of course. Oysters, 2515 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 675-7411. Open for dinner daily, 4-10 p.m. $$$

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PANDA INN: A lot of well-rendered Mandarin favorites appear on the sprawling regular menu (and at the generous Sunday brunch) at Panda Inn. Be bearish about the “seasonal menu,” though; the dishes are more original, but this pleasant, airy place does better on basics like moo shu pork and tea-smoked duck. Panda Inn, 2 Centerpointe Drive, La Palma. (714) 522-3328. Lunch and dinner Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. $$

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THE PERUVIAN GRILL: It specializes not so much in grilled food as in Peruvian seafood dishes, such as ceviche appetizers large enough for a small meal and pescado ajo macho, a grilled fish topped with scallops, shrimp, calamari and a spicy cilantro sauce. The Peruvian Grill, 9606 Hamilton St., Huntington Beach. (714) 593-3883. Dinner Mondays-Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. $$

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P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO: It serves Asian-inspired dishes in a high-voltage setting--and the dishes can be high-voltage with pepper themselves. Good appetizers are seared ahi and Chang’s spare ribs. The best entree is Paul’s catfish: tender chunks of fried catfish tossed with a garlicky black bean sauce. Desserts are outstanding. P.F. Chang’s China Bistro, Irvine Spectrum Center, 61 Fortune Drive. (949) 453-1211; Fashion Island, 1145 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 759-9007. Lunch and dinner Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-midnight. $$