Stirring Views of Coast and Redwoods From Muir Beach

Just a half-hour’s drive north of the Golden Gate Bridge, Muir Beach is tucked into an often blustery, foggy cove that escapes the attention of tour buses making a beeline for nearby Muir Woods National Monument.

Although you can follow Pacific Coast Highway to Muir Beach, a more dramatic approach can be made on foot along a spectacular length of the California Coastal Trail that extends north from Tennessee Beach. The bluff-top path has lupine-framed, soul-stirring views of the craggy coast and redwood-cloaked Mt. Tamalpais.

You’ll start the hike in the Tennessee Valley, walled in by high ridges and seemingly isolated from the world, though San Francisco is only a few miles away. A walk through the valley to the beach is a fine family adventure and a memorable link to the California Coastal Trail.

Directions to the trail head: From U.S. 101 north of the Golden Gate Bridge, take the California 1 offramp. Follow the highway half a mile, turn left on Tennessee Valley Road and drive to a large parking lot and the trail head.

The hike: Tennessee Valley Trail begins as a paved road and then turns to dirt, descending alongside a creek lined with willow and eucalyptus. A mile out, leave the road and take the left-forking trail (mountain bikes forbidden), which is a more engaging way to Tennessee Beach.

About half a mile from the beach, the trail passes a junction with the California Coastal Trail. Continue on the path through Tennessee Valley, rejoin the dirt road of the Tennessee Valley Trail and descend past a small lagoon to the beach. Look for a rock window above the north end of Tennessee Beach.

Return inland on the same dirt road to a signed junction with the California Coastal Trail, which you will follow northwest. While pausing to catch your breath, look behind you to enjoy the views of Tennessee Valley and the Marin Headlands.

The coastal trail flattens a bit, then descends to Pirates Cove. The trail marches up and down bluffs and passes a junction with Coyote Ridge Trail. You’ll have a prime panorama of Muir Beach and Green Gulch as you walk down the steep path toward Muir Beach.

Follow the unsigned sandy trail over low dunes to the beach. Cross Redwood Creek on a footbridge to reach a parking lot with portable restrooms.

To return to your starting point, backtrack on the California Coastal and Tennessee Valley trails. Or, if you have arranged to be picked up at Muir Beach, drive 11/2 miles north on California 1 to the Muir Beach Overlook. Follow a cliff-top trail past World War II gun emplacements to the vista point.

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For more of John McKinney’s tips, visit www.thetrailmaster.com.