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Tuna Melt Sandwiches

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It’s two classic sandwiches in one--grilled cheese and tuna.

Broadway Deli: This version mixes albacore tuna with celery, chives, tarragon, mayonnaise and chopped egg whites. It comes on wheat, rye or sourdough, grilled until the cheese--Swiss, Jack or cheddar--is running down the sides. You get French fries on the side. (Tuna melt, $9.25.) Broadway Deli, 1457 Third St. Promenade, Santa Monica (310) 451-0616.

Victor’s Restaurant: Here’s a high-quality old-fashioned tuna melt: line-caught albacore, chopped eggs, mayonnaise, celery and onions. There’s a wide selection of breads, but the rye and pumpernickel are particularly good with either Swiss or Jack. The choice of sides includes fried onion rings. (Tuna melt, $10.50.) Victor’s Restaurant, 1917 N. Bronson Drive, Hollywood, (323) 464-0275.

Harbor House Cafe: Service is fast at these places. The sandwich is albacore with a touch of celery, mayo and pickle relish, piled high on rye or wheat with a couple of slices of cheddar, Jack, Swiss or American cheese and grilled. Lettuce and tomato come on the side. (Tuna melt, $7.65.) Harbor House Cafe, 34157 Pacific Coast Highway, Dana Point, (949) 496-9270; 16341 PCH, Sunset Beach, (562) 592-5404.

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Say Cheese: This gourmet shop/ cafe tosses albacore with mayo, celery and green onions, spreads it on rosemary bread with mustard, mayo, alfalfa sprouts and lots of extra-sharp cheddar and grills the whole thing until the cheese bubbles. It comes with baby greens in balsamic vinaigrette. (Tuna melt, $8.50.) Say Cheese, 2800 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, (323) 665-0545.

Roll n’ Rye Deli: These guys have been in the sandwich business for 35 years. Their tuna salad is albacore with plenty of mayo and diced celery, heaped onto fresh rye bread and covered with American cheese. When it’s grilled, it oozes everywhere. (Tuna melt, $9.50.) Roll n’ Rye, 10990 W. Jefferson Blvd., Culver City, (310) 390-3497.

Kate Mantilini: Spread between slices of corn rye is an old-fashioned tuna salad made of albacore, celery, green onions, lemon juice, white pepper and mayo. It’s covered with a grated, aged cheddar before grilling. (Tuna melt, $9.95.) Kate Mantilini, 9101 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 278-3699.

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