Sticking With Steak

When it comes to special-occasion dinners, it’s reassuring to rely on a versatile trio of recipes that are proven winners. No need to reinvent a menu every time.

These do-ahead dishes can be served warm or at room temperature. Serve them buffet-style, if you’d like. The tenderloin recipe is an old standby; I’ve yet to find a better version. The tenderloin is marinated in a fresh-herb mixture and grilled (or broiled) until medium rare. Paired with a red pepper and onion marmalade, which is a substantial vegetable garnish, it’s perfect for serving on a plate or a buttered warm roll (with Dijon mustard). The baked orzo makes an ideal companion.

The rest of the menu is yours. I always add a salad--a bowl of romaine lettuce and tender greens or haricots verts, arugula and pine nuts, both with simple vinaigrette. Typically, a selection of cheeses with baguette slices follows. For dessert, choose a festive cake from your favorite bakery and pass a bowl of strawberries.

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Red Onion and Red Pepper Marmalade

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 35 minutes

2 red bell peppers

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 onions, halved and thinly sliced

2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon coarse salt

3 tablespoons minced fresh basil

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Heat the broiler.

Stand the peppers on their ends and cut them into 4 flat sides and remove the seeds. Arrange the peppers skin side up in a single layer on a foil-lined pan and broil until blackened, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove them from the oven and wrap the peppers in the foil. Wait until they’re cool enough to handle, then remove the skin. Cut them into strips and set them aside.

Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onions and sugar. Cook, stirring often, until the onions are lightly colored--not dark brown--about 10 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, mustard and salt. Cook, stirring often, until the onions are soft, about 7 minutes more. Stir in the red peppers; heat through. Adjust the seasoning. (This can be made several days ahead and refrigerated. To serve, gently reheat even if serving at room temperature). Stir in the basil, thyme and rosemary. When hot, stir in the butter until melted. Taste; adjust seasoning. Serve hot or at room temperature.

8 servings. Each serving: 51 calories; 304 mg sodium; 8 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 1.69 grams fiber.

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Grilled Herbed Tenderloin

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 8 hours marinating

For a smoky nuance, add a few pieces of water-soaked apple, hickory or mesquite wood to the grill.

1 (3-pound) piece tenderloin, trimmed of visible fat

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 large shallot, minced

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup minced mixed fresh herbs, such as basil, thyme and rosemary

Coarse salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Red Pepper and Onion Marmalade

Fresh herb sprigs, for garnish

Place the tenderloin in a large plastic food bag. Combine the garlic, shallot, mustard, vinegar, oil, herbs, 1 teaspoon of salt and the pepper in a small dish. Add to the meat. Work through the bag to coat the meat. Tightly seal the bag to keep all the meat covered in the marinade. Place the bag in a bowl. Refrigerate the meat overnight, turning the bag occasionally. Let the meat come to room temperature before grilling.

Prepare a medium-hot barbecue fire with a few chunks of water-soaked wood. Alternatively, place the broiler rack 8 inches from the heat source; heat to medium-high heat. Drain the meat; reserve the marinade. Lightly sprinkle the meat with more salt.

Grill or broil the tenderloin until cooked as desired, brushing with the reserved marinade and turning as necessary. Depending on the heat, it may take as long as 15 to 20 minutes to cook the meat; an instant-read thermometer should register 125 degrees for medium rare, 130 degrees for medium. Tent loosely with foil; let the meat rest at least 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

Serve the meat hot or at room temperature. Cut it into thin slices close to serving time. Arrange the marmalade on a platter. Overlap the tenderloin slices attractively on the marmalade. Spoon accumulated pan juices over the meat. Garnish the platter with herb sprigs.

8 servings. Each serving: 507 calories; 466 mg sodium; 113 mg cholesterol; 40 grams fat; 15 grams saturated fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 30 grams protein; 1.73 grams fiber.

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Baked Orzo With Mushrooms, Chives and Parmesan Cheese

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup minced sweet onion

5 mushrooms, diced

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1/4 cup snipped chives

9 ounces orzo, cooked al dente, according to package directions, drained

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 1/3 cups low-salt chicken broth

1/4 teaspoon coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

3/4 cup fresh bread crumbs tossed with 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon butter, for topping

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 9-cup capacity, 8-inch-square, 4-inch deep, casserole or souffle dish; set aside.

Place the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion and mushrooms. Cook, stirring often, until heated through, about 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic. Cook 1 minute. Add the chives, orzo, cheese, broth, salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Transfer to the baking dish. Sprinkle the crumbs over the top. (This can be prepared to this point several hours ahead and kept at room temperature.)

Bake, uncovered, until the crumbs are browned, about 45 minutes. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings: 146 calories; 244 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1.15 grams fiber.