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History on a Mammoth Scale

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Three weeks from today, thousands of fishermen will make their annual pilgrimage to the Eastern Sierra for the general trout season opener April 26.

It’s probably safe to say that few, if any, are aware that the small town of Lee Vining, alongside U.S. 395 north of June Lake, was named after a prospector who built a sawmill on a creek feeding Mono Lake.

Or that he was later killed in a saloon fight -- after shooting himself in the groin while trying to pull his gun out of his holster.

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Which probably had a lot to do with the naming of the town and creek after him....

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With fishing season approaching, spring skiing season is already in full swing at Mammoth Mountain Ski Area, which has been delivering thrills since it opened in 1953.

Most skiers and snowboarders know that the founder is Dave McCoy, still active at nearly 88. It’s uncommon knowledge, however, that the U.S. Forest Service, when it awarded McCoy a 25-year lease to build his dream resort -- after failing to receive any bids from prospective developers -- doubted he could get his project off the ground.

McCoy, once a renowned ski racer and coach, put Mammoth on the map when he completed Chair 1 just in time for Thanksgiving weekend in 1955. The crowd that weekend was so big that some skiers had to stay as far south as Mojave, 220 miles away.

McCoy’s dream had become reality and things are still snowballing for a legendary figure in a land bursting with lore and wonder.

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Martin Forstenzer, an Eastern Sierra resident for more than two decades, takes an in-depth look into these and other events that have shaped the area in “Mammoth: the Sierra Legend” (Mountain Sports Press, $49.95).

It’s a must-have for any Eastern Sierra aficionado, a unique coffee-table book that incorporates concise and well researched text onto pages splashed with spectacular color photographs and black-and-white historical photos such as those showing McCoy in his heyday, working and playing in what he considers heaven on earth.

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The book takes readers on a journey through time, from the Eastern Sierra’s tumultuous geological beginnings to its Wild West period, to its days as center stage for Hollywood filmmakers and stars, to its current period as a mecca for lovers of the great outdoors.

It refers to legendary pioneers John C. Fremont and guide Kit Carson, who led the first expedition into the Owens Valley in 1845, finding conditions so harsh and game so scarce that they were forced to eat some of their horses and pack animals. A quote from Fremont: “We had tonight an extraordinary dinner -- pea soup, mule and dog.”

They were followed by miners who filtered in from the west after the gold rush in 1849. They flooded in 10 years later, after the discovery of gold near Mono Lake. The towns of Bodie and Aurora sprung up and Mono County was born, with Bridgeport eventually becoming the county seat.

Rumors of a large gold field north of Pumice Mountain, now Mammoth Mountain, led to a flood of prospectors in that direction. They never found the “Lost Cement Mine” but found gold on Mineral Hill, near the current location of the town. Mammoth City was born, later to be renamed Mammoth Lakes.

Mining soon gave way to ranching and Mammoth became much more law-abiding than its neighboring towns -- particularly Bodie.

The infamous Bad Man from Bodie once menacingly announced, while standing on a saloon billiard table: “Here I am again, a mile wide and all wool. I weigh a ton and when I walk the earth shakes. I’m a sandstorm mixed with a whirlwind. I’m bad from the bottom up and clear grit plumb through. I’m chief of Murdertown, and I’m dry. Whose treat is it? Don’t all speak at once or I’ll turn loose and scatter death and destruction full bent for the next election.”

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Hollywood discovered the Eastern Sierra in the 1930s. Henry Fonda, Gary Cooper, Ginger Rogers and Anthony Quinn were among those who went both to relax and make movies. The boulder-strewn Alabama Hills south of Mammoth and west of Lone Pine was a virtual production lot for all sorts of movies, notably westerns.

John Wayne made his starring debut there in “The Big Trail.” Other movies included “How The West Was Won,” “Springfield Rifle,” “High Sierra” and “Along The Great Divide.”

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Finally, in a chapter titled “Sierra Summer,” Forstenzer touches on the types of recreation that take place after the spring thaw: mule pack trips into the spectacular John Muir and Ansel Adams wilderness, hiking on trails that all lead someplace wonderful, rock climbing and bouldering, mountain biking on the barren trails of the ski area and, of course, fishing.

“The stories about giant trout leaping out of the Owens River and snatching mule deer off the banks aren’t true,” the author writes. “But the walls of a Bishop cafe really are adorned with locally caught and mounted trophy trout in the 25-pound range.”

And those whoppers will do plenty to whet the appetites of those sitting down for breakfast come opening day.

Trout Opener Notes

* Trout plants: The state’s budget crisis probably will affect the Department of Fish and Game’s ability to raise and plant trout at some point, but is not expected to do so this year.

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“California’s budgetary crisis has not hampered Fish and Game’s roadside stocking program,” said Mike Haynie, hatchery supervisor for the region. “The numbers and pounds of fish ... are expected to remain the same this year as in years past.”

* June Lake Loop: John Logue, owner of Ernie’s Tackle and Ski, is busy making room “for all the fresh product.” That’s fishing equipment, which will replace ski apparel and rental equipment. Logue, whose store is the unofficial headquarters for loop-goers on opening day, is predicting a productive opener because of a mild winter and lakes that are already ice free.

* Bridgeport: As snow was falling for the second consecutive day Wednesday, Twin Lakes Resort owner Steve Marti said it was a welcome reprieve from a minor heat wave days earlier because it halted a snowmelt that nobody wants to occur too quickly. The snowpack is about 70% of normal in the East Walker drainage and the longer it sticks around the better.

This is particularly true as far as the managers of Bridgeport Reservoir Recreation Area are concerned. The lake’s water is governed by the Walker River Irrigation District and used for farming in Nevada.

* Generally speaking: Asked for an overall assessment, Tom Loe, owner of Sierra Drifters guide service, said, “It looks like a rerun of last year as of now, with a good early season and a slow fall due to low water. The dog days of summer will depend on how much additional moisture we receive the next 30 days.

“The East Walker [River] and Bridgeport Reservoir will not be great due to two years of low flows, Crowley Lake will be average until late in the year and [poor] after that. The San Joaquin [River] will fish good until Labor Day, the Upper Owens will be so-so all year, the other put-and-take lakes and creeks will fish dependent upon how Fish and Game’s budget goes.”

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Locally

* Salmon fishing: Port Hueneme Sportfishing issued this report last Sunday, a day after opening day: “Entire sport fleet -- all landings -- struck out.” Sporadic catches were made aboard private boats but fishing was and remains very poor and strong midweek winds haven’t helped.

* Marine mammals: The staff and volunteers at the Marine Mammal Care Center in San Pedro work tirelessly at times, caring for sick and injured seals and sea lions. Sunday is their annual Day of the Seal open house, from 10 a.m.-4 p.m. It’s an eye-opening experience.

Details: www.mar3ine.org.

* Fishing show: The Fred Hall Tri-County Sports Show, with more than 600 boating, fishing and outdoor travel booths, continues through Sunday at Seaside Park in Ventura. Admission is $7 for adults, free for children 15 and younger. Hours are 2-8:30 p.m. today, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday.

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