A gem, just off Hockney’s highway

In the mood for some desert, but not the drive to Joshua Tree or Anza Borrego? Think Pearblossom, a nondescript town on a barren stretch of road memorialized in David Hockney’s “Pearblossom Highway.”

The area is a little-known gem 60 miles north of Los Angeles, and about 10 miles east of Palmdale in the Antelope Valley. It’s the westernmost part of the Mojave Desert on the north slope of the San Gabriel Mountains, and it serves up a host of natural wonders, plus a smattering of cultural and spiritual destinations for those willing to meander a bit.

Through mid-May, the wildflowers provide an additional bonus, especially at the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve -- 45 minutes to an hour north of Pearblossom. The 1,746-acre park, about 15 miles west of Lancaster, is considered the most consistent territory for raising California’s state flower. Plan to visit in the morning, when the winds are calmer and the bright-orange buds more likely to be open. If you’re in the vicinity this weekend, catch the 12th annual poppy festival, with live music and an art expo, at Lancaster City Park.

What’s of interest

Visit St. Andrew’s Abbey, a Benedictine monastery in Valyermo, near Pearblossom, in time to see the white-robed monk who rings the bell every day for noon Mass. The tiny church is packed on Sundays, making seats scarce, but the service is even nicer when you’re sitting outside. There’s also a lovely meditation pond and a shop selling the religious-themed ceramics for which the place is known. (The abbey’s yearly arts and crafts festival will take place Sept. 27 and 28.)

“This is one of those ‘you have to know about it’ places,” said Jose Smith, a Sherman Oaks resident who works as a production coordinator for a software company. “It’s a very spiritual spot, where people really seem to enjoy churchgoing. On the other side of the hill, they go for other reasons.”

Another find: the 75-year-old Antelope Valley Indian Museum, listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Built into the side of a butte, the Swiss chalet-type structure houses artifacts and kachina dolls collected by the late Howard Arden Edwards, a self-taught artist who bought the property in 1928. Saddleback Butte State Park, with a trail going up to the “saddle” (the dip between two ridges), is just around the corner.

Scenic beauty

The Devil’s Punchbowl, a deep canyon cut by the runoff from the San Gabriels, is a must. Three hundred feet deep at its vista point, it has a level, self-guided nature trail (Pinon Pathway) and a more strenuous one-mile loop for those prepared to climb back up. About eight miles west, don’t miss the Littlerock Reservoir, along a windy stretch of road just south of Pearblossom Highway (Route 138). Now that the drought has eased, the spot is particularly dramatic, with trees submerged up to their branches. Tables, shaded by faux pagodas, make this a wonderful picnic place.

Up, up and away

Want a bird’s-eye view of the region? Fred Robinson’s Great Western Soaring School offers sail-plane rides. Fifteen minutes of flying time cost $82; 30 minutes and 45 minutes are $109 and $169, respectively. Only one passenger per flight, who (not counting takeoff and landing) is permitted to fly the plane.

Eats

There’s often a line at Valley Hungarian Sausage & Meat Co., a roadside spot along 138 run by the Varga family, which makes 26 kinds of sausage on the premises. Popular with locals and tourists (the guest book includes names of visitors from Honolulu and Seattle), it serves good deli and sausage sandwiches on an outdoor patio for less than $6 apiece.

“ ‘Why a Hungarian place in the desert?’ people ask me,” said Julia Varga, who runs the 24-year-old establishment with her daughter. “Well, there’s not much competition -- and this is a very busy road.”

Charlie Brown Farms is another rest stop for skiers and those on their way to Vegas or points south. Specializing in barbecue (including buffalo and ostrich), it’s also known for its smoothies, shakes and endless vats of candy. Also in Littlerock: Mama’s Pizza, which specializes in the thin-crust variety. Garlic parmesan is a favorite.

Overnight

Pearblossom Inn offers six modest (but clean) rooms with digital cable TV at $45 a night. For the more rugged contingent, there’s Big Rock Creek Camp, a privately owned facility with a spring-fed swimming pool, trout fishing and large, permanent tepees for campers. Also in the vicinity are the federally run Sycamore Flats and Big Rock campgrounds -- all close to Devil’s Punchbowl. The campgrounds, filled on a first-come, first-served basis, require passes from the Angeles National Forest Service (available at the country store at the east end of Pearblossom or the forest service, south of Route 138 on Big Pines Highway).

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Pearblossom

Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve: 15101 Lancaster Road, $4, parking. (661) 724-1180

Lancaster City Park:

43011 N. 10th St., (661) 723-6276

St. Andrew’s Abbey:

31001 Valyermo Road, Valyermo, (661) 944-2178

Antelope Valley Indian Museum: Avenue M between 150th Street East and 170th Street East, (661) 946-3055.

Devil’s Punchbowl County Park: 28000 Devil’s Punchbowl Road, Pearblossom, (661) 944-2743

Littlerock Reservoir:

32700 Cheseboro Road, Littlerock, (661) 296-9710 or

(661) 533-1923

Great Western Soaring School: 32810 165th St. E., Llano, (661) 944-9449.

Valley Hungarian Sausage & Meat Co.: 8809 Pearblossom Highway, Littlerock, (661) 944-3351

Charlie Brown Farms:

8317 Pearblossom Highway, Littlerock, (661) 944-2606

Pearblossom Inn:

13250 Pearblossom Highway, (661) 944-3565

Big Rock Creek Camp:

18101 Red Gulch Road, Valyermo, (661) 944-9005

Sycamore Flats, Big Rock campgrounds:

Big Rock Creek Road near Big Pines Highway, (760) 249-3504