Waltzing Matilda in a ballroom

“For those of you who aren’t from the great land down under, I thought it would be worthwhile if I give you some background into our great culture,” said director Rod Hardy (“The Practice,” “JAG”), emcee of the sixth annual Australia Day Ball, in the Grand Ballroom down under Century City’s St. Regis Hotel.

Some of his helpful maxims included:

“The bigger the hat, the smaller the farm.”

“The shorter the nickname, the more they like you.”

“And whether it’s the opening of parliament or the launch of a new art gallery, there is no Australian event that cannot be improved by a sausage sizzle.”

But there was no sausage sizzling here. For the most part, Aussie cliches were conspicuously absent at this fete hosted by the Australian American New Zealand Assn. The bar eschewed Foster’s in favor of Penfolds wines and Hahn’s premium beer, and the chef eschewed Vegemite, lamb stew and shrimp on the barbie in favor of halibut in kiwi-cilantro sauce and beef in a port wine demi. But pride was everywhere. And why not? The island nations seem to have taken over Hollywood.

“It’s not quite the Mafia that people imagine,” said this year’s honoree, Melbourne-born Rachel Griffiths of “Six Feet Under.” She was decked out in a gray evening dress designed by fellow Aussie Richard Tyler. “Everybody thinks that we’re always over at Nicole’s house watching videos. I’ve never been invited.”

Kidman was not in evidence, although plenty of other indie Antipodean actors and directors did show up (e.g., “FX’s” Bryan Brown, “Patriot Games” and “The Quiet American” director Phillip Noyce), and a handwritten letter of congratulations from Heath Ledger and Naomi Watts was reproduced in the program.

“I was very ‘pre,’ ” said Sarah Wynter, meaning she arrived here years in advance of the main Aussie invasion. “For the longest time I didn’t work.” Now a fixture on the award-winning “24,” she feels that “it helps that we’re a multitasking bunch. We train hard. We don’t come up through beauty pageants.”

“You wouldn’t know these actors weren’t English or American,” added Sydney-based director Bruce Beresford (“Breaker Morant,” “Driving Miss Daisy”), who’s in town shooting a Pancho Villa epic starring Antonio Banderas. “Everyone accepts them in these parts. They know they have to lose their Australian accent in a lot of roles. And they do it.”

Not to overlook the even more far-flung New Zealanders, of course. “We’re a little country but we’re making a lot of noise,” said Kiwi siren Helen Henderson (now leader of an L.A.-based band) as the audience rose to hear her sing her country’s national anthem, “God Defend New Zealand,” in Maori and English.

This was followed by Kate Ceberano’s rendition of the Australian national anthem and the familiar and difficult “Star-Spangled Banner” done capably a cappella by former Candlebox lead singer Kevin Martin (now of the Hiwatts).

Keeping the audience on its feet longer than expected was Consul General of Australia John Olsen’s lengthy toast expounding on all the virtues of his home country. Indeed, somewhere between the line about “Australia, according to the Economist of Dec. 7, is leading the 15 nations over the last five years of economic growth” and the third invocation of Rupert Murdoch’s career, most of the room sat back down.

Things progressed more, er, fluidly after that. The party-hearty crowd had to be shushed plenty to get through the live auction (raising $25,000 for the Australia Bali Relief Fund and the AANZA Benefit Fund; the guests also contributed $155 to $295 per plate) until the evening culminated with a video montage featuring Griffiths’ accomplishments -- from the well-known “Muriel’s Wedding” and “Six Feet Under” to the more obscure “Cosi” and “My Son, the Fanatic” -- and the presentation of her award.

“Well, I feel far too young for a retrospective,” admitted the newly married Griffiths (husband Andrew Taylor was also present), who turns 35 this month. “I’m glad some of my films finally got seen by people, probably some of their biggest audiences tonight. The filmmakers will be delighted.” After five minutes at the mike she concluded, “OK, I’m rambling. Thank you so much. And party on.”