Newcomers

West Hollywood’s Sona is a serene, minimalist setting for David and Michelle Myers’ studied contemporary cooking. The young couple go for broke with an inventive menu that looks to nouvelle cuisine and the Far East for inspiration. Best is the six- or nine-course menu spontanee, a series of small, artfully composed courses that finishes with Michelle Myers’ delicious desserts. The two have guts and passion, but sometimes ambition and enthusiasm override sense and sensuality.

Christine Splichal zeroes in on the day spa at her new Kinara Spa and Cafe. With a menu designed by Joachim Splichal, her uber-chef husband of the Patina Group, the food at this chic cafe is enticing enough with or without a spa visit. A talented young chef, Elizabeth Mendez, prepares intriguing soups, delicious salads, open-faced sandwiches and a three-course spa menu.

EM Bistro on Beverly Boulevard eschews the scene for straightforward American comfort food with universal appeal. The setting is comfortable, the noise level manageable, so guess what? This is one restaurant where you can actually visit with friends over a dinner. Nearby, in the former Muse space, Grace is consistently crowded with thirtysomethings who look as if they just came from a casting call for “Friends.” (Who are these people?) The dining room, with its tangerine banquettes, is surprisingly comfortable. When it comes to food, simpler is better.

Silver Lake lucked into a couple of new places, too. Edendale Grill is housed in a lovingly restored 1920s fire station just up the street from the neighborhood’s first movie studios. Its handsome Mixville bar has become a neighborhood hang, and the American menu is well-priced if a bit uneven.

Hollywood heats up with a chic new Cuban bistro called Paladar that puts a contemporary spin on traditional Latin cuisine. Chef Joe Herreros’ version of medianoche is a glorious sandwich of ham, roasted pork and melted Swiss cheese, and it comes with terrific spicy fries. Herreros makes a hit, too, with his tropical salads, oxtail braised in red wine and marinated skirt steak with an updated chimichurri sauce. Bring on the mojitos.--S.I.V.

Edendale Grill, 2838 Rowena Ave., Silver Lake; (323) 666-2000. EM Bistro, 8256 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 658-6004. Grace, 7360 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 934-4400. Kinara Cafe, 656 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 657-9188. Paladar, 1651 Wilcox Ave., Hollywood; (323) 465-7500. Sona, 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood; (310) 659-7708.