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1998 Bedford Thompson Cabernet Franc, California

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Cabernet Franc, the black grape that’s often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux and actually predominates in St. Emilion’s fabled Cheval Blanc, doesn’t get much respect in this country. That’s why this 100% Cabernet Franc from northern Santa Barbara County is such a thrilling discovery.

It’s a marvelously crafted wine with a perfume of red berries and smoke and a gorgeous texture and medium weight. It offers a totally different taste experience from Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon, but this neglected grape also makes a wine that loves food. It can hold its own against highly spiced dishes and exotic flavors, too. A beautiful basic at a great price.

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Quick swirl

Region: Los Alamos Valley, Santa Barbara

Price: About $15

Style: A medium bodied, food-friendly red.

Food it goes with: Soups, roasted birds and meats, highly spiced dishes.

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse, Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Heritage Wine Co., Pasadena, (626) 844-9333; and and selected Whole Foods markets.

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