2001 Domane Wachau Riesling Smaragd ‘Singerriedel’

This may be the best buy going in Austrian whites. It comes from Domane Wachau (the new, user-friendly name for Freie Weingartner), a winegrowers’ cooperative that turns out remarkable wines at reasonable prices.

Always among the best Rieslings from the Wachau Valley west of Vienna, Singerriedels are distinguished by their crisp acidity and minerality, a result of the vineyard’s particularly cool climate. This pale gold wine has a wonderful perfume of spice and citrus and a creamy texture, and though it’s bone-dry, it leaves a gossamer impression of sweetness.

Drink it on its own as an aperitif, or with just about anything.

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Region: Wachau, Austria

Price: About $24

Style: Aromatic and dry

Food it goes with: Seafood, soups, roast poultry, cheese

Where you find it: Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454, and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.