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Her tale of the South Pacific

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I enjoyed “In the South Pacific, a Splendid Isolation” (April 27). Years ago I took a Greek freighter carrying lumber from Coos Bay, Ore., to Papeete, Tahiti, a $300, 16-day one-way experience featuring Tongan crewmen, the smell of oil and seasickness. Being young, adventurous and impulsive, I had no return ticket to show the authorities in Papeete, and they were not too welcoming. After frantic calls to my housemates in Berkeley and my parents, I was sent a ticket to Honolulu.

In Tahiti there was an inter- island ferry that the locals all used, and I ended up in Uturoa city, on Raiatea, and spent some lovely weeks with a family that took me in as if I were a relative.

Then I took a larger supply boat, the Taporo, which transported copra and supplies, up to the Marquesas. The passengers lay on the upper metal decks under a tarp. Families brought food and shared it with others.

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I was one of fewer than a dozen nonnative travelers. The Polynesians were ever smiling, cheerful, generous and warm. Because I was not a missionary, off a yacht or a member of the French military, they were suspicious about what I was doing there. Nonetheless I felt safe and welcome.

Although their accessibility and mystique may have changed, it’s obvious the beauty of the South Pacific islands hasn’t.

Debra Trent

Echo Park

Send letters to Travel, L.A. Times, 202 W. 1st St., Los Angeles, CA 90012; fax (213) 237-7355, e-mail travel@

latimes.com. Include your name, address and phone number.

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