Seeing ghosts on the Nez Perce Trail

IT is a lonely, wind-swept corner of the northern Montana plains, within sight of mountains to the south and west and a scant 40 miles from the Canadian border. This shallow depression in the rolling grassland doesn’t advertise itself, and all that signifies its importance are a few understated memorial placards and the offerings of recent visitors.

This is the Bear Paw, where on Oct. 5, 1877, the Nez Perce tribe’s Chief Joseph surrendered after an epic four-month, four-state fighting exodus from the tribe’s ancestral home in Oregon’s Wallowa Valley. Bound for the safety of Canada, spent from their many Pyrrhic victories over the U.S. Army, the harried remnants of Joseph’s people succumbed after a five-day siege. Here Joseph, surrendering to Col. Nelson Miles, said, “From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more, forever.”

I hadn’t planned on visiting the Bear Paw, but some busted camping plans last summer left me at loose ends for a few days, and I was eager to hit the road in big sky country.

In 1986 Congress created the Nez Perce National Historic Trail, tracing as nearly as possible the route taken by Chief Joseph and nearly 800 followers from what were known as the “non-treaty” bands of the Nez Perce tribe. It is theoretically possible to walk the entire 1,170 miles, but over the years I have found it easier to drive many of the roads paralleling the trail and connecting with points of interest that are, since 1965, officially administered as the Nez Perce National Historical Park.

Friends to whites from the time of Lewis and Clark, the Nez Perce, or Nimiipu, were as peaceful a nation as ever resided on this continent, but by the 1870s they were the victims of repeated predation by treaty-violating settlers and an indifferent U.S. government.

Festering personal grievances exploded on June 13, 1877, when some warriors sought revenge -- without Joseph’s sanction -- by raiding ranches and farms in the Salmon River Valley area. Joseph saw that his band’s only chance of salvation lay in leaving the Wallowa Valley and marching to refuge in Montana with his allies the Crows, or in Canada with Sitting Bull’s Sioux.

Less than a year after George Armstrong Custer’s demise at Little Bighorn, the country was disinclined to allow a band of armed Indians free rein outside reservation lands, so the Army immediately mobilized to stop Joseph.

It wasn’t up to the task. The historically peaceable Nez Perce outgeneraled, outshot and outfought every unit thrown at them until they were eventually overwhelmed at Bear Paw.

Joseph’s retreat crossed some of the most difficult and spectacular country in the American West, reason enough for the casual traveler to learn a little history while on the road. And it’s a history of battle: The major points of interest -- White Bird Creek, Clearwater Creek, Ft. Fizzle, Big Hole, Camas Meadows, Yellowstone, Canyon Creek Field and, finally, Bear Paw -- mark the bloodletting endured by Indian and soldier during that summer and fall of 1877.

If it’s the beginning you’re looking for, start in the Wallowa Valley at Joseph, Ore. The park’s headquarters, a museum and a visitor center are located at Spalding on Highway 95, about 10 miles east of Lewiston, Idaho. More than half of the 38 interpretive sites in the historical park are in the small area encompassing the intersection of Oregon, Washington and Idaho.

The first conflict was at White Bird Creek. On June 17, 1877, the 1st Cavalry fired on an Indian truce party. Thirty-four soldiers were killed but no Nez Perce. Today an interpretive site overlooks the spot, on U.S. 95 about 15 miles south of Grangeville, Idaho.

After regrouping, the Army pursued and on July 11 attacked with artillery and Gatling guns at the Clearwater River. The battle was something of a standoff, but the Nez Perce successfully retreated. An interpretive site on Idaho 13 is about two miles south of Stites.

The retreat began in earnest along the Lolo Trail, traveled earlier by Lewis and Clark, but not before another -- this time bloodless -- confrontation at “Ft. Fizzle.” A detachment from the 7th Infantry, supported by 150 civilians, barricaded the trail near the Clearwater River. In a parlay the Nez Perce convinced the defenders that they would not surrender and that they meant no harm. Resistance crumbled, and on July 28 they simply moved around the barricade without a fight.

Today U.S. 12, the Lewis and Clark Highway, generally follows the Lolo Trail about 100 miles over the Bitterroot Mountains by way of Lolo Pass, where there is a seasonal visitor center.

Attempting to evade the pursuing soldiers, Chief Joseph turned south, following the Bitterroot River for about 100 miles on a route followed by scenic U.S. 93 in Montana. Crossing the Continental Divide at what is now known as Chief Joseph Pass, they turned east for about 25 miles -- tracked today by Montana 43 -- and, thinking themselves out of harm’s way, camped in a valley known as the Big Hole. Joseph reassured his people, “War is quit.”

He could not have been more wrong. Col. John Gibbon and the 7th Infantry had followed and, in the early morning hours of Aug. 9, attacked the camp. The Nez Perce quickly reacted, driving Gibbon’s men to a defensive position and escaping again. Though it was a major Nez Perce victory, both sides suffered grim casualties.

The Big Hole National Battlefield, complete with visitor center and ranger assistance, was the first Nez Perce site I visited some years ago, and my interest was keen since family legend told that a relative, Trooper Sam Steiner, might have fought there. The battlefield, with self-guided walking tours, is as remote today as it was in 1877.

An escalating cycle of violence

Again fleeing south toward Yellowstone National Park, then just 5 years old, the band crossed back over the Continental Divide, most likely at Bannock Pass, all the while pursued at a distance by the Army under the command of Gen. O.O. Howard. The conflict became increasingly bitter: The Nez Perce raided local farms and ranches for supplies, and Gen. Howard’s forces killed and scalped a group of Nez Perce stragglers.

The first road approximating the route is Montana 278, east of Big Hole, running southeast for about 70 miles before joining Interstate 15, leading another 100 miles to Dubois, Idaho. Idaho 28 is an alternate route.

Joseph’s and Howard’s forces clashed again at Camas Meadows, near Dubois. The Nez Perce ambushed the Army, liberating 200 pack animals and stopping Howard’s momentum.

Crossing the Continental Divide yet again, this time through Targhee Pass, Joseph traversed fledgling Yellowstone National Park, briefly holding hostage a group of tourists before turning north.

Aided by the telegraph, the Army confronted Joseph’s band on Sept. 13 at Canyon Creek Field, between Billings and Laurel, Mont. This time the Nez Perce took heavy losses, in men and horses, but escaped again. The site is preserved in the Canyon Creek Battlefield National Historical Park, eight miles north of Laurel.

Rebuffed soon after by the Crow, they realized that Canada was their only hope, a hope dashed three weeks later at Bear Paw.

The Bear Paw lies 200 miles north of Billings. For the most part it is open prairie country, skirting forests and mountains, including the Judith, Little Belt, Snowy and Bear’s Paw ranges. The easiest route might be the arrow-straight U.S. 87 and 191 north from Billings. I chose instead to head north from I-90 at Big Timber, taking U.S. 191 and Montana 236 through Judith Gap and Lewiston until the pavement turned to gravel at Hilger. This was as spectacular a stretch of rural highway as I have seen, taking me through a broad valley between the Snowy and Little Belt ranges and giving me glimpses of violent Montana thunderstorms in the distance. After 15 miles I reached the Missouri Breaks country and the river, a formidable obstacle even today.

Joseph’s band crossed the wide Missouri at Cow Island after a brief skirmish. I crossed more peacefully about 20 miles to the west via the McClelland ferry. The ferry, operated by the Stafford family, is usually summoned from the north bank by two-way radio. From the river the prairie gives way to gentle foothills whose sparsely wooded tops look for all the world like a collection of bad haircuts. The gravel road then crosses the treeless Bear’s Paw Mountains, spills out again onto the prairie near Cleveland and meanders another 20 or so miles to the battlefield. It’s a hauntingly beautiful and solitary drive. I saw only two other cars in 75 miles.

I was alone at the Bear Paw Battlefield National Historical Park that afternoon. The site, with picnic tables and restrooms, contains a 1 1/4-mile self-guided tour, marked by memorial stones and placards. A few private memorials, clearly left by Native Americans, dotted the pathway.

It was hard not to be sad and angry at the Bear Paw. This was not America’s finest hour, in spite of the “victory.” The good guys lost.

After almost a week’s bloody fighting, Joseph surrendered 480 of his people to Col. Miles, but not before more than 100 eluded Army outposts and made it to Canada. Those who surrendered, in spite of being assured that they could return home, were condemned to spend the next eight years in Kansas and Oklahoma’s “Indian Territories.”

Chief Joseph and his Nez Perce were ultimately returned to the Northwest, but Joseph was never again allowed to see his beloved Wallowa Valley, dying in 1904 at Washington’s Colville Reservation. His grave, I suppose, marks the true end of the Nez Perce Trail.

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(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX)

Following in the footsteps of Chief Joseph

GETTING THERE:

The Nez Perce Trail and Nez Perce National Historical Park are spread over five states -- Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Wyoming and Montana. Many principal sites are as isolated now as they were in 1877. The closest major gateways to the Wallowa Valley and the trail’s beginning are Spokane, Wash., and Boise, Idaho. Livingston, Mont., is my preference for exploring the trail. It has a variety of accommodations and is in a spectacular setting 50 miles north of Yellowstone National Park.

To Lewiston, Mont., connecting service is available from LAX on Alaska and Delta. Restricted fares begin at $203.

WHERE TO STAY:

Paradise Inn, 102 Rodgers Lane, Livingston, MT 59047; (800) 437-6291. This simple hotel is locally owned and has a pool. Doubles start at $74.

Murray Hotel, 201 W. Park Street, Livingston, MT 59047; (406) 222-1350, www.murrayhotel.com. The Murray is a historic hotel downtown; it was recently renovated. Doubles are $112.

Roaring Lion Inn, 830 Timberbrook Lane, Hamilton, MT 59840; (877) 546-6466, www.roaringlioninn.com. A rustic but comfortable bed-and-breakfast close to Big Hole National Battlefield. Doubles start at $95.

WHERE TO EAT:

Chatham’s Livingston Bar & Grille, 130 N. Main, Livingston, MT 59047; (406) 222-7909. Excellent food, including steaks, chops and seafood. Entrees $14-$25.

Chico Inn at the Chico Hot Springs Lodge, 1 Chico Road, Pray, MT 59065; (406) 333-4933, www.chicohotsprings.com. One of Montana’s finest restaurants, with fresh local produce, poultry and beef. Entrees $22-$36.

Maggie’s Wild Oats Cafe & Coffee House, 217 W. Main St., Hamilton, MT 59840; (406) 363-4567. Features hearty Montana breakfasts and interesting spiced soups and sandwiches for lunch. Entrees under $10.

TO LEARN MORE:

Nez Perce National Historic Trail, Clearwater National Forest, 12730 Highway 12, Orofino, ID 83544; (209) 476-8334, www.fs.fed.us/npnht.

Nez Perce National Historical Park, 39063 U.S. Highway 95, Spalding, ID 83540-9715; (208) 843-2261, www.nps.gov/nepe.

Nez Perce Tribe, P.O. Box 365, Lapwai, ID 83540; www.nezperce.org.

-- James Dannenberg