2002 Alphonse Mellot ‘La Moussiere’ Sancerre

No newcomers, the Mellot family has been making wine in Sancerre since 1513. La Moussiere is their classic Sancerre. Minerally and lean, it has a wonderful intensity of flavor and a long, steely finish -- a very pure expression of Sauvignon Blanc.

I love it as an aperitif, but also with food. One of the great matches is a classic Sancerre like this with a chalky crottin de Chavignol, an aged goat’s cheese produced nearby.

But it’s also a terrific food wine that will escort everything from a chilled shellfish platter or a sampling of oysters to grilled fish and prawns and even a roasted chicken.

--S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Loire Valley, France

Price: About $23

Style: Firm and minerally with a clean snap of acidity

Food it goes with: A classic crottin de Chavignol or other aged goat cheese, chilled seafood, smoked salmon, corn chowder, grilled fish

Where you find it: Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111; Wine Country in Signal Hill, (562) 597-8303.