2002 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Sec

When Vouvray is good, it is very, very good. And this Vouvray sec (dry) from a great vintage is an astonishing Chenin Blanc. Its lush flowery perfume gives the impression of sweetness. The surprise is that it’s bone-dry. Crisp and chiseled, the 2002 Domaine du Clos Naudin from third-generation wine producer Philippe Foreau is laced with minerals and has an intense, lingering finish.

This is an absolutely gorgeous wine with food, either now or a few years from now. These Loire Valley whites age beautifully.

Vouvray sec loves oysters, chilled shellfish, steamed mussels and clams, all sorts of seafood.

-- S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Loire Valley

Price: About $26

Style: Intense and minerally

Food it goes with: Raw shellfish, steamed mussels and clams, Dungeness crab, all sorts of seafood.

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Larchmont Village Wine & Cheese in Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; (800) 76WINEX; the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.