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2002 Gini ‘La Frosca’ Soave Classico

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Soave couldn’t find a better representative of the terrific wines this often underrated appellation is capable of producing than “La Frosca” from Gini. Ripe and tropical, the 2002 has a fresh acidity and a hint of bitterness that keeps things interesting.

Italian winemakers really excel at these kinds of crisp, juicy whites at a moderate price level, not at yet another international-style Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. When Soave is made well (and Gini is one of the top producers), it has a character and fascination all its own. It’s a wine that will always be welcome at the table when you’re having sauteed shrimp or a piece of grilled fish. It takes well to Asian food too.

S. Irene Virbila

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Region: Veneto, Italy

Price: $15.99

Style: Crisp and juicy

Food it goes with: Chilled shellfish, sauteed squid, fresh sardines, cioppino, spaghetti alle vongole.

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Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Woodland Hills Wine Company, (818) 222-1111.

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